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TKO600 swap into 67 with 429

Terry
Where the crossmember bolts on under the trans, there is a brace that runs up and over the trans completing a “hoop”. The brace is maybe 1/2” - 3/4” thick channel/stamping. The trans is tight against it. I’m going to have to cut a section out in the tunnel, then reinforce it to get clearance.
And yeah, I don’t want to be pulling this thing any more than I have tooo! But also can’t wait to drive it with a 5 speed. I have always wanted it to be a manual trans car. Finally happening


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tarafied1 said:
Terry
Where the crossmember bolts on under the trans, there is a brace that runs up and over the trans completing a “hoop”. The brace is maybe 1/2” - 3/4” thick channel/stamping. The trans is tight against it. I’m going to have to cut a section out in the tunnel, then reinforce it to get clearance.
And yeah, I don’t want to be pulling this thing any more than I have tooo! But also can’t wait to drive it with a 5 speed. I have always wanted it to be a manual trans car. Finally happening


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How did that transmission jack work for you?

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You know, you could gain a bit more clearance by lowering the engine relative to the frame. That could move the tranny down a bit as well.
 
David67 said:
How did that transmission jack work for you?

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the jack worked pretty good. I don't care for the chain hold down. It does (sort of) hold the trans still but not solidly. But the side tilt and front to rear tilt feature saved me. I have pulled and installed so many automatics with the flat pan on a floor jack but this TKO is heavy and odd shaped. I couldn't have done it by myself on a floor jack
 
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Midlife said:
You know, you could gain a bit more clearance by lowering the engine relative to the frame. That could move the tranny down a bit as well.
Click to expand...
can't lower the engine anymore. With the first gen Crites motor mounts that I had in there it was too high (and still occasionally dragged the oil pan). The second gen motor mounts lowered the engine 1 1/2" and I test fitted the mini starter. It barely clears the drag link/tie rods. A stock starter would not fit. If I lower the engine anymore I would have to change the steering a lot!
If I cut the bracing out of the tunnel I should have enough room. I can get the bolts into the crossmember but the trans is jammed against that brace and would be like a solid mount. Probably make lots of noise and vibrations. I will pull the trans back out and cut that brace and reinforce it with some plate steel.
 
I was able to work on the car today. Pulled trans back out. Modified the brace and put trans back in to see if it fit better.
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Are you going to make a patch to seal up the new hole in the brace? Not just to maybe add back some integrity but also to keep dirt and moisture out.
 
Yes. I just needed to check if it was going to be enough clearance. I’m going to wire brush everything clean and then box it in. I have to pull everything back apart now anyway to assemble the engine.


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Yeah, I had to modify the motor mounts and this brace in the tunnel. I’m going to make some slight mods to the cross member as well. It’s much easier to do this stuff with a bare block and no clutch, pressure plate etc. once I’m happy it will all bolt up and fit together then I can focus on assembly of the engine


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Yes. I think I will go ahead and pull the carpet. I have the drivers seat and console out already from when I did the pedals. It won’t take much more effort to go ahead and remove it.


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tarafied1 said:
Yeah, I had to modify the motor mounts and this brace in the tunnel. I’m going to make some slight mods to the cross member as well. It’s much easier to do this stuff with a bare block and no clutch, pressure plate etc. once I’m happy it will all bolt up and fit together then I can focus on assembly of the engine


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You remind me of mechanical engineer who had a 67 Vette with a 427. He had calculated he could knock at least 250 lbs off total weight by perforating the frame with a 3/8" drill bit
 
Lightning holes! Yeah I could shave some weight with more holes but I am mainly concerned with all these parts fitting without rattling and rubbing and vibrating. I’m putting together parts that were not originally designed to work together with parts made by aftermarket to fit a mass production 50 year old car. I’m just trying to make a quality swap because I will pound on this car and I want it to work.


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