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What did you get done on your Stang today????

put my "freshened up" steering box in & started bolting up the new front end parts from john @ opentracker!

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"B67FSTB" said:
Today I mounted the lower reinforcement plate in the rocker panel.
I cut an opening in the rocker behind the quarter panel ( see pic )
took a rod and welded it to the reinforcement plate and guided it through that hole and positioned it .Then I placed a bolt and tighted it to the inner rocker.
After that , I drilled two holes and secured it by two big rivettes .
IMO its very good to hold the retractor of the seat bells.
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Hey, did you find my tutorial on VMF? That's exactly how I did mine. Got lots of opinions on the rivets vs. welding.

Frank
 
"crustycurmudgeon" said:
Hey, did you find my tutorial on VMF? That's exactly how I did mine. Got lots of opinions on the rivets vs. welding.

Frank
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riveted or welded, it's only gonna be as strong as the piece of sheet metal that it could pull thru.
 
"tarafied1" said:
looks great Steve
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thanks! this has been a job of extremes. the left side of the engine compartment had 1/4" deep coat of greasy crud from the old leaky p/s pump while the right side was covered in surface rust from a battery that blew up some time in the past. its been sand until your hands are tired on one side, then swap over & scrape crud on the other....

only thing i'll have left to do on the front end when this is complete is making a set of adjustable strut rods. still looking at a couple different designs on that.
 
I got everything all buttoned up yesterday and tested the clutch action. It all looks good and it appears to have the proper travel to engage the clutch now. I didn't want to wake with the neighbors at 10pm so I'm going to test it all today. I also found where the transmission crossmember was rubbing a bit of the trans since I had the engine slid a few inches back. That was fixed and I'm sure that was a great source of vibration.

Cheers!

-Shannon




"LastDeadLast" said:
I got the transmission installed today. I tried to use the guide bolt method, but for some reason I couldn't get the transmission in. I ended up installing the bellhousing and then attempting to slide the transmission onto that. Still no luck. I finally got the big idea to use a clamp to engage the clutch and the the transmission slide right into place with no resistance.

I did notice that the new clutch fork is a about 1/2" longer than the old fork.. not sure how that's going to change things, but the slave cylinder push rod for the hydraulic clutch fits in the fork better.

I still need to bolt the shifter back in and tighten everything up, install the driveshaft, fill it full of oil, and install the exhaust back and we'll be ready for a test drive.

Let's hope everything works this time! :hs

-Shannon
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"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
riveted or welded, it's only gonna be as strong as the piece of sheet metal that it could pull thru.
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Same opinion here.
The rivets just have to hold it in place so you can bolt the seatbell.
by impact , the rivets don't play any major role to hold the force , its the bolt and mounting plate that is crucial.
 
"crustycurmudgeon" said:
Hey, did you find my tutorial on VMF? That's exactly how I did mine. Got lots of opinions on the rivets vs. welding.

Frank
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No Frank sorry but

Great minds think alike !!!!

I got inspiration from all places but in particulary from CMAYNA who did a fine job on Shag.
He got me to Andover who sold me a pair of seatbells.I like that sash thing .
 
Got my adjustable strut rods assembled and tacked. I will finish welding them after a test fit. I couldn't be happier with them so far.

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thats great man.Just one thaught , isn't it better to built a 68 style strut rod ??
I have noticed that they are better when installing a bigger sway bare . :confu :confu
 
"cmayna" said:
Sure seems much easier to just buy a set already made.
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Yeah, but our motto is: if it ain't broke, fix it anyway!

Part of the enjoyment of the hobby is to make things instead of buying them.
 
Yeah, be like J and spend 400 hours making them perfect and then not noticing ANY difference in the ride quality.
 
"B67FSTB" said:
thats great man.Just one thaught , isn't it better to built a 68 style strut rod ??
I have noticed that they are better when installing a bigger sway bare . :confu :confu
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Bruno, honestly, i haven't given much thought to a bigger sway bar, i just have newer 67 style lcas, so figured i'd stay with them and 67 strut rods.

"cmayna" said:
Sure seems much easier to just buy a set already made.
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Yea, i bet it is. I have about 4-5 hours of garage time into these, and most was done during nap time with a baby monitor near by. It was a good project for a little time here, a little time there. Best part, the 300 dollars i saved can buy a lot of diapers.

"Midlife" said:
Yeah, but our motto is: if it ain't broke, fix it anyway!

Part of the enjoyment of the hobby is to make things instead of buying them.
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+1 I got the steel, and grade 8 hardware for free, and the cutting and shaping was one of the more enjoyable projects i've done in a while. I wanted to see if it could be done without fancy tools. I built these with a cordless hand drill, a sawzall, a bastard file, and a 6" grinding wheel.
 
"B67FSTB" said:
Same opinion here.
The rivets just have to hold it in place so you can bolt the seatbell.
by impact , the rivets don't play any major role to hold the force , its the bolt and mounting plate that is crucial.
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:stu
 
"lethal289" said:
Best part, the 300 dollars i saved can buy a lot of diapers.
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You forgot one of the most important things in doing them yourself....pride in accomplishment! Great fab work!! :thu
 
"Midlife" said:
Yeah, but our motto is: if it ain't broke, fix it anyway!
Part of the enjoyment of the hobby is to make things instead of buying them.
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+1 HERE !!!!
 
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