Spanner wrench is the name for it I know. First time I ran into such a caliper was on an old Saab. Just welded a couple bolts about the right diameter to a piece of flat stock and instant tool!
-
Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
Already a member? Login here then!
69 Sportsroof "Mystique"
- Thread starter JRANGER
- Start date
JRANGER
Active Member
yup thats essential what i ordered
JRANGER
Active Member
Surprise 6" of snow in TN... So i tried to play and almost got my 53 Stuck...... Torino wouldnt start so she didnt get to play
You need to bring your butt up north and we'll show you how to "play" in the snow. You gotta ramp up your speed a bunch of notches and then send her sideways to get things going. Winter is all about driving down the snowy/icy street and swinging that rear end back and forth like a pendulum. Its drifting without the tire wear!!
JRANGER
Active Member
lol, yall have more fun unfortunately i dont have a way to get the truck back out and almost got stuck in the driveway so i decided against more fun
JRANGER
Active Member
Been hard at it and forgetting to update this post. Been doing a lot of sanding lately, and rolled on the eastwood epoxy primer. Waiting to see if it turns out better because it seems like it got a lot of runs on the vertical surfaces after the 2nd coat looked smooth. So ill let it cure and see how much blocking needs done before a high build
Also ordered an exhaust kit to fit up to my shorty headers. Will take some work for sure
Also ordered an exhaust kit to fit up to my shorty headers. Will take some work for sure
Last edited:
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Yeh , sanding takes alot of work and ...I hate it . Seems something is wrong with the primer sprayed on. Maybe its better to spray multiple thin layer of epoxy but give it time to properly dry out between layers ? I am not an expert on this but I see some " orange peel " . Again , I am not an expert and giving advice afterwards is always easy . IMHO.
BTW , I admire your work etics.
BTW , I admire your work etics.
Aussie67
Well-Known Member
Just sand the orange peel out. 400 wet paper should do it.
Epoxy is not high build when it comes to sanding. You've got your work cut out for you. A good epoxy is like rock when hardened. I think you'll need something a lot more aggressive than a simple 400. To knock that down I'm guessing 220 or even more. Why did you choose to roll it? You've sprayed lots of stuff before.
Have you got another '65 stashed away in the other bay, I see?
Have you got another '65 stashed away in the other bay, I see?
JRANGER
Active Member
definitely going to have to do 220 or better...The one quarter especially ended up with tons of runs...I think i re-coated 2 quickly because the 1st coat went on great
JRANGER
Active Member
i had the roll on epoxy and it went on the roof well so wanted to use the kit i bought. I sprayed it in the past, certainly the way i ill be doing it from now on
Watching that last video I will say you didn't get runs your got SAGS. You put the stuff on way too heavy and the weight of the material simply couldn't support itself via adhesion and well, you get what you got. This is why we spray it on. You can achieve coverage much easier with less material. No amount of thinner and/or hardener, regardless of what you used, would have prevented that mess.
I sure hope it is a second rate epoxy simply because if it cures and hardens like a good one...you will be hating yourself in the morning! Either way, accept your fate and have at it. You have a ton of material to remove so don't try and be cute using too fine a paper. It will just clog up quick and at best give you a wavy surface. Go coarser so the dust can fall out and the paper dig into that stuff. You are bound to cause some bare metal before its all over. Chalk it up to lesson learned. Better to get that off and do it over with a good product that you SPRAY on. You don't want that mess under your final top coat. A paint job is only as good as what is under it, as they say.
I sure hope it is a second rate epoxy simply because if it cures and hardens like a good one...you will be hating yourself in the morning! Either way, accept your fate and have at it. You have a ton of material to remove so don't try and be cute using too fine a paper. It will just clog up quick and at best give you a wavy surface. Go coarser so the dust can fall out and the paper dig into that stuff. You are bound to cause some bare metal before its all over. Chalk it up to lesson learned. Better to get that off and do it over with a good product that you SPRAY on. You don't want that mess under your final top coat. A paint job is only as good as what is under it, as they say.
JRANGER
Active Member
Fair enough, i did roll lightly but i think i may of missed a step, i looked at some videos and apparenly your supposed to basically blot the roller on paper before applying. I also wonder if i should of just stopped at one coat for the day
JRANGER
Active Member
Since i need to let the epoxy cure, ive been tearing down the wall and re-arranging the garage. So much more room for activities
JRANGER
Active Member
oof, been almost a week and it still gummy in those bad spots. Gonna let it cure another week before i hit it with heavy grit
I have to say it looks like you absolutely really mucked up mixing that stuff. Any 2K type product would have at least dried if not hardened by now even as thick as it was laid down. You'd be wise to sand all of it off completely. You don't any of that left on the car. Anything put over it simply will not have an adequate base worth trusting to have success. On the bright side, I'm betting it will sand off much easier than it should!
When you get ready to apply another epoxy, make sure you are mixing at the correct ratios and using the harder appropriate for the environmental conditions of the time. If not, you may get better appearing results but still have issues. How stuff lays on is only a piece of the equation. How solvents flash off, how materials set and harden are key to whether an application really works out. If you're going to put an epoxy base under what you hope to be a great paint job (and I am a firm believer in doing so) it needs to be done just as well. Same for your primer and every other layer in the process.
I am not a pro by any means but, for example, I sprayed my car over 10 years ago and it looks the same today as it did when new. It worked out that way because of the process I used and the quality of the materials I chose. Plus, I had a few years experience practicing painting and learning the process when rebuilding and respraying industrial equipment at an old job. Every failure is an opportunity to learn and get better. Just sucks it costs so much $$ and time.
My preferred path is to get the metal work all done. Any rust/rot removed etc. NO bodywork. Just get it all to good, clean bare metal. Over that I lay down a quality 2K epoxy. Then body work. Then primer(s). Sealer. Then top coat and clear if doing base coat/clear coat. Actually, on my car I did the color with a single stage and then topped it with a clear. The truck and Model A will both be base/clear but the bodies done the same way prior.
When you get ready to apply another epoxy, make sure you are mixing at the correct ratios and using the harder appropriate for the environmental conditions of the time. If not, you may get better appearing results but still have issues. How stuff lays on is only a piece of the equation. How solvents flash off, how materials set and harden are key to whether an application really works out. If you're going to put an epoxy base under what you hope to be a great paint job (and I am a firm believer in doing so) it needs to be done just as well. Same for your primer and every other layer in the process.
I am not a pro by any means but, for example, I sprayed my car over 10 years ago and it looks the same today as it did when new. It worked out that way because of the process I used and the quality of the materials I chose. Plus, I had a few years experience practicing painting and learning the process when rebuilding and respraying industrial equipment at an old job. Every failure is an opportunity to learn and get better. Just sucks it costs so much $$ and time.
My preferred path is to get the metal work all done. Any rust/rot removed etc. NO bodywork. Just get it all to good, clean bare metal. Over that I lay down a quality 2K epoxy. Then body work. Then primer(s). Sealer. Then top coat and clear if doing base coat/clear coat. Actually, on my car I did the color with a single stage and then topped it with a clear. The truck and Model A will both be base/clear but the bodies done the same way prior.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
I only can say what Terry said above. Its a pitty.
JRANGER
Active Member
Ive just been working on fuel lines and exhaust giving it time to cure more. My buddy who has done paint and body for a long time said sometimes the Epoxy takes awhile to cure. If it doesn't sand any better this week there is definitely an issue. its a 1:1 mix so hard to mess up that badly
A look at the flowmasters exhaust and the header extensions. Have one ready to weld together and need to work on the passenger side
A look at the flowmasters exhaust and the header extensions. Have one ready to weld together and need to work on the passenger side
JRANGER
Active Member
well definetly right, started sanding the epoxy with 320 a little yesterday and even though it sands better it started ripping it off the evercoat. So guess it didnt fully cure. Gonna take some chemicals to it and try to get it off the sail panel area so i dont mess up my body work
I'd forego the chemical usage myself. Especially if you intend to retain anything under that stuff like body fillers. Fillers can and will absorb moisture. This is why I always suggest epoxy on bare metal before using fillers. Anyone who has ever stripped a car down to metal has seen rust under filler that developed because it absorbed moisture before it was sealed over. You don't want to have filler under your top coat that has absorbed anything like a paint stripper, etc. Recipe for another disaster.
Get some 80-120 discs for your sander and knock that crap off. You'll need a grit of this aggressiveness not just to clear the surface of that Eastwood crap but also to give bite for whatever you come back with to start over. I say start over because that is what you need to do if you want to end up with a decent finished product. It won't take much to lay down a bit of filler to repair whatever gets messed up in the process and you'll be back to the point you can then lay down a proper base from which to move forward.
We all learn our lessons along the way. No shame in that. What you don't want to do is compound it by trying to find shortcuts to try and correct anything. It just ends up costing more in materials and time. Been there done that.
Get some 80-120 discs for your sander and knock that crap off. You'll need a grit of this aggressiveness not just to clear the surface of that Eastwood crap but also to give bite for whatever you come back with to start over. I say start over because that is what you need to do if you want to end up with a decent finished product. It won't take much to lay down a bit of filler to repair whatever gets messed up in the process and you'll be back to the point you can then lay down a proper base from which to move forward.
We all learn our lessons along the way. No shame in that. What you don't want to do is compound it by trying to find shortcuts to try and correct anything. It just ends up costing more in materials and time. Been there done that.