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Discussion in 'Member's Build Threads' started by RapidRabbit, Mar 30, 2011.
I've always liked them in silver and black. I'm amazed at the price.
Here's why I want to paint the rest of the car.
The hood is the worst.
Nothing to think about. Call a paint supplier and get quoted on the materials alone to paint your car. It'll be half that $2500...easy.
I've thought about it. But I just don't think I have the time to deal with it. And I know it won't come out great.
That's what he's saying jump on the deal the body shop offered while it's available. The materials to do the job will easily be 50% of what he quoted you to paint your car.
Oh I get it now. I'm a little slow this morning.
I wasn't clear in my last post. I meant to jump on the deal to get it painted. I spent nearly that much painting mine myself between supplies and equipment.
Well I've put about 100 miles on the car since I got it back.
The only issues are the trans so shifts hard if I drive it mild. If I get on it it seems ok. Not sure I like the shift kit the trans shop put in.
The entire front suspension feels like crap. It's creaking, clunking and wandering. It was all rebuilt before the engine swap. I'll need to go through it all this winter.
The bigger issue is the car stalls when I first start it until it's warm. It starts right away then stumbles for a minute and then dies. If I keep revving it I can keep it from dying. And occasionally after driving it for a bit. If I stop and put it reverse it stalls.
Remind us what carb, ignition and timing you have in this car so the resident gurus can help.
No carb. Stock 5.0 efi engine except for the intake.
Holy guacamole how'd ya get all that to fit? Now you've got all kinds of stuff to look into: throttle position sensor, air temp sensor, mass air flow sensor, idle air control motor, O2 sensor, and engine control computer. Do you have a way to plug in and get a diagnostic?
A really big shoe horn I do work at a shoe store you know.
I have a code reader that I plugged in but the only thing I'm getting are codes for the deleted EGR which is a soft code and doesn't affect anything
Was it running ok previously or is this a recent install?
The engine was just recently started in my car for the first time. It seemed fine, but is slowly getting worse.
A quick way to check if the MAF sensor is the culprit is to simply unplug it. If the idle cleans up, then try cleaning it and or clocking it at a different angle incase the sensor portion isn't seeing the correct air flow passing through.
Are you using an un-shrouded mechanical fan? Some say that air coming of the side of the fan then entering the air filter can also upset the signal on the MAF. Not sure how true it is, but where your filter is so close to the MAF, it might be something worth checking. You could try temporarily shielding the air filter from the fan if there is any excess fan air being directed at the air filter.
Also check that the air idle control valve is working. Also check the ports match between the AIC and the throttle body. You might need to do some mild porting to insure they are aligned if you used an aftermarket throttle body. This was the main cause of poor idle with mine when I got it going for the first time.
on the trans, it might be your TV cable adjustment. The TV cable tells the trans how much pressure to put on the clutches, when to shift, etc. When I did a AOD swap I found that I could change the harshness and shift points by adjusting the TV cable. But be very careful with that. Too low pressure can fry the clutches if they slip when driving. It's best to put a gauge in the port on the trans to make sure you keep the pressure at spec.
Thanks for the tips guys. I will look into all of them.
I do have an extra maf sensor too. I can try to swap them.
I have not built a fan shroud yet. It's on the list. Or I may go electric.
Eventually I think I may relocate the battery and bring the air intake forward through the more to get away from the engine heat.
The TV pressure was set by the trans shop that did the rebuild.
It only stumbles and dies for about 10-20 seconds when I first start it. If I give it gas and rev it, it stops. Maybe some crap got into the fuel pump?
Ok, quick update. I just got home from being out of town for work. I'm only home 3 days a week now for the next 3 months.
I pulled the codes again and now I have 2 codes.
95 and 96. Both are fuel pump fault codes. I hate dealing with wiring.
(O)Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(R)AIR not Diverting (AIRD) – Air Injection
(M)Possible bad fuel pump ground or open between fuel pump and pin 8 at PCM (Fuel Pump Monitor signal) – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(O)Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(R)AIR Bypass (AIRB) not working – Air Injection
(M)(Service 87 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open – Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
Here's what happens on cold starts. After the first start then it's fine.
Need to rebuild the carb