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The ***"Official"*** StangFix Drag car

"supermav" said:
i am new to this site but it is my new place to hang out. this place is great. my drag car is not a mustang but a 65 galaxie. i do have a 67 and a 68 mustang so don't throw me out yet :pbj

We dont have many rules.....but the most important one needs to be followed.....
:wop
 
"supermav" said:
i am new to this site but it is my new place to hang out. this place is great. my drag car is not a mustang but a 65 galaxie. i do have a 67 and a 68 mustang so don't throw me out yet :pbj



Welcome to the Fix . . . . Everyone here loves Galaxies . . . :bowdown
63galaxie.JPG
 
here are some pics of mine and some other projects
 

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it started life as a 70 429 it is now a 521 . it still has the dove-c heads and is running a weiand stealth with a 950hp carb. and a big solid roller cam
 
"supermav" said:
the galaxie we built and ran on pinks in 2006. it runs 10.80s and weighs 4000 pounds with me in it
I was gonna ask, I thought it looked familiar. Cool.
I like the Maverick's too!
I've got a 70 429 with the D0VE-C heads in my other 67. (pretty mild though, it won't run 10.80's)
 
i may have missed it but what engine are you planning on running in you drag car? p/s sorry about hijacking your thread
 
"supermav" said:
i may have missed it but what engine are you planning on running in you drag car? p/s sorry about hijacking your thread

LOL. Far from a hijacked thread. But if you hang around a while, there are some master jackers that can show you how it's done. :thu
 
"supermav" said:
i may have missed it but what engine are you planning on running in you drag car? p/s sorry about hijacking your thread
I have 94 Cobra 5.0 short block with an E303 cam, early (66) 289 casting heads that are ported and have 351W valves 1.6 roller rockers and a calculated 10.5:1 CR. I have an 85 HO distributer and a 600 cfm VC Holley for it. I plan to run a C4 with about 4,000 stall speed and I have a 9" with 4.11:1 gears. I have been contemplating putting the 5.0 in my red 67 so I could go with a 5 speed and AC since it is my power tour car. Then build up the 429 for the drag car. The 429 is just so cool and with it being mild it isn't fussy at all and has gobs of torque so I hate to yank it out of the red car but...
I really want to be about mid 7's in the eighth mile, there is a bus mechanic that my wife works with that has an V8 S10 that runs mid 7's (7.40 I think) and he and her are always going around and around so I'd like to be able to run him heads up.
 
craig i like the new train of though. I might just have to jump in the bimmer and drive up there to help with the swap....get my stang fix out of the way lol...looking at magazines and catalogs are killing me lol
 
you know where my motor is. I could possibly do some tinkering on that while tinkering on the drag car..my weekends have clared up with all of this bs..I bribe you with cool army stuff for your son lol
 
Your motor is still in Oklahoma. I will get it when I take the car out to Jason (if he still wants to paint it). But you are welcome anytime and while my son will be happy to be bribed and talk Army with you its not required!
 
before I put the dash back in I want to paint the firewall grey like this Camero
IMG_0660.jpg

I need to really strip the whole interior down before I paint... unless I mask off at some point and paint the rest later. What do yawl think? finish stripping it all and paint the whole thing before putting in the dash or just get the area around the dash painted and get it back in. The issue is just time really. I 'd like to get it to Jason soon and I know he would like to have the car a roller so he can start on it and probably not wait for my slowpoke arse to get this thing ready.
 
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Well the car will not be street driven or qualify to be tagged right? That means all of the wiring comes out that doesn't make the car run right? So the only wiring left will be gauge harness and ign. harness?

If I remember right you were going to do an alum. plate for the gauges (autometer or whatever but not stock or in the stock bezel). So you can run generic wires to the gauges you install in a panel later and you won't need wiring for headlights, washers, wipers, TS switches, door lights, interior lights, HVAC wiring/cables, etc. I would tear it all out (wiper motor, etc.) and spray bomb it. You can always fit a dash panel, cut some wiring, etc. until you take it to paint, less in the way and if you prefit you can quickly install when you get it back from paint.

Will you still need to keep brake lights? fuel gauge? just trying to think of wiring that goes to the rear of the car.
Jon
 
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