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Time to get serious about cooling the 65 mustang down

No offence, but electric fans are a joke on these old engines. A clutch fan will pull at least 5 times more air through your radiator than any electric fan on the market. A cooling system also needs to be balanced. A radiator capable of transmitting 5000BTU of heat can only do it when the right size fan is used. With the "correct" size fan then will maxium efficiency will be achieved. In most automotive cooling systems, a velocity of 2200 FPM or 25 MPH is where they are most efficient. I know that's where several electric fans are rated, but I'm guessing that's free flow and not with a radiator core in front of it (clutch fans IMO are like 10,000). So............you may very well have the correct size radiator but a fan that is too small to move the correct amount of air. This is a common result when using an electric fan. Also, higher octane fuel (like 110) will create less heat as well as the correct timing.
 
OMG, I totally overlooked the issue of an electric fan. Agree with Mr. Evil that a clutch or direct drive fan with a shroud will keep the motor much cooler as compared to an electric one.
 
"67 evil eleanor" said:
No offence, but electric fans are a joke on these old engines. A clutch fan will pull at least 5 times more air through your radiator than any electric fan on the market. A cooling system also needs to be balanced. A radiator capable of transmitting 5000BTU of heat can only do it when the right size fan is used. With the "correct" size fan then will maxium efficiency will be achieved. In most automotive cooling systems, a velocity of 2200 FPM or 25 MPH is where they are most efficient. I know that's where several electric fans are rated, but I'm guessing that's free flow and not with a radiator core in front of it (clutch fans IMO are like 10,000). So............you may very well have the correct size radiator but a fan that is too small to move the correct amount of air. This is a common result when using an electric fan. Also, higher octane fuel (like 110) will create less heat as well as the correct timing.
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+1

You don't need to reinvent the wheel to cure your issue. These cars have been wheeling around for 50 years with stock sized radiators keeping things cool.

Mech fan, correctly fitted shroud and maybe a separate trans cooler will do the job. Like I said, I ran similar for years in my first 65...in Chicago traffic no less. Why cut it up if you don't have to?
 
I am aware that the electric fans don't cool as well as the mechanical fans but it works good for me. I don't like the noise the mechanical fans make and I would rather send the HP they take to the tires. I also don't like working on a running motor with that fan spinning around.

I can sit in traffic with the car and it won't overheat. I've got the fan on a manual switch and the only time I turn it on is when I have to sit for a length of time. Cruising around town with no long stops is done with the fan off.

As for cutting up the car, it's a C code and this radiator support is thrashed anyway. The car had been hit in the front and it needs replacing. I don't feel bad at all for trimming the opening for the cross flow. If it was a GT or a Shelby, I wouldn't even put a drill bit to the car, for any reason.

This car is a turd, if I wad it up at the track I won't feel bad, I'll fix it and run it again.
 
You guys need to think out of the box.

Install an Air Conditioning system, and have the vents directed at the radiator. Now how much simpler can you get?
 
I have a giant 28" cross flow rad in my 66 track car and a 2360cfm, 16" Spal fan. Needle never moves, even in 90+ degree 20-30 minute hammer sessions on track. I cut the rad support open similar to what John did so the rad is all in the airflow.

Plugged up stock sized replacement on the right, 28" cross flow on the left:
IMG_2215.JPG


28" installed. I was also able to tuck the rad under the lip on the support and gained a few inches to the water pump pulley:
IMG_2352.JPG


IMG_2351.JPG


Electric fans rock IMHO. They pull more air at idle so you don't heat up in traffic and they won't fillet your arm/hand when working on the car when running.
 
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Shaun, the tucked up under the support lip with the little cut out for the cap is what I was thinking I would end up looking like. Nice to see it like that....looks ok to me. It also looks like you cut the curved in recessed part completely out and flat down to the support.
 
Hey Shaun do you have the full specs on that radiator (length/width) and do you think you could have kept a battery in the front with a little tray tweaking?

I don't see many cross flow design with an integrated cooler...I suppose I could install an aux cooler....but showing a second cooler in front of the radiator feels like I would be defeating the purpose of making room for the bigger unit.

And lastly....sawzall or whizzer wheel with cut off disc? ;)
 
"Opentracker" said:
Best I can remember it's from a 71-73. I was looking on ebay too and found this one that looks like it'll work.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Row-All-Alumi ... 3f&vxp=mtr
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Thanks a bunch!!! :thu :thu

I had looked at a 71-73, but was never able to nail down any dimensions that I could use. The standard measurements I found were always the core size itself, but didn't include the extra width/height for the tanks!
 
"dodgestang" said:
Hey Shaun do you have the full specs on that radiator (length/width) and do you think you could have kept a battery in the front with a little tray tweaking?

I don't see many cross flow design with an integrated cooler...I suppose I could install an aux cooler....but showing a second cooler in front of the radiator feels like I would be defeating the purpose of making room for the bigger unit.

And lastly....sawzall or whizzer wheel with cut off disc? ;)
Click to expand...

It won't fit with the stock sized battery tray. I removed the tray completely and switched to a motorcycle battery.

I use an air saw. I friggin love that thing!
 
The radiator in Shaun's car has the inlet and outlet on the same side. The size is fine but you'll need an outlet on the other side.
 
"Opentracker" said:
The radiator in Shaun's car has the inlet and outlet on the same side. The size is fine but you'll need an outlet on the other side.
Click to expand...

The same supplier I use for that dual pass pictured has a triple pass with drivers inlet/pass outlet if that will work...
 
Now that's quick service !

The photo shows the 1 1/2" inlet at top passenger and a 1 3/4" outlet at lower drivers. We need it with the 1 1/2" inlet on top passenger side and a 1 1/2" outlet on the lower drivers side. I would like the filler neck on the passenger side too if you can.


Like this:
radiatorspecs.png
 
"Opentracker" said:
Now that's quick service !

The photo shows the 1 1/2" inlet at top passenger and a 1 3/4" outlet at lower drivers. We need it with the 1 1/2" inlet on top passenger side and a 1 1/2" outlet on the lower drivers side. I would like the filler neck on the passenger side too if you can.


Like this:
radiatorspecs.png
Click to expand...

John,

This place won't do any custom stuff. Griffin used to for us but they are spendy. Northern sells a blank rad with no inlet/outlet/fill holes at all. You cut them out yourself and Tig on the fittings where you want them. Let me know if you need a price on this.
 
"Opentracker" said:
Now that's quick service !

The photo shows the 1 1/2" inlet at top passenger and a 1 3/4" outlet at lower drivers. We need it with the 1 1/2" inlet on top passenger side and a 1 1/2" outlet on the lower drivers side. I would like the filler neck on the passenger side too if you can.


Like this:
radiatorspecs.png


Well it certainly is easier to shop with such a nice picture ;)
Click to expand...
 
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