At least his ears won't flop around in the wind!
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1952 F1: The Garage Roommate
- Thread starter Horseplay
- Start date
Mach1 Driver
Well-Known Member
Much of the work of late has been to find a way to get the engine to fit UNDER the hood. Silly as it sounds, the real problem I had with it sticking through the hood was that it didn't stand up taller. When final assembly was possible and accurate measurements made (short of having the actual front clip installed) the results indicated that basically the air cleaners would be all that protruded. Not nearly enough to look "cool" and deal with all the headaches having an exposed engine causes. I could add in some velocity stacks or carbs spacers to raise things a bit more but not really my thing. I decided I would rather find a way to shrink it a few inches and get it under the hood.
So to that end I'm making new engine mounts/stands to drop things a bit. Likely have to modify the front crossmember as well. Oil pan is really close.
If things go according to plan I should have some fun this weekend. I elected to do my own full rebuild of a transmission for the truck rather than use the "good" one I have had sitting around. At this point, why cut any corners or take any chances on something giving me unexpected issues. To that end, I have been sourcing and amassing the parts needed. I secured and immediately disassembled a candidate transmission to inspect all the gears, etc. to make sure everything that goes back in the case will be without question "good". Final parts list aside from all the new bearings, seals, washers, spacers, upgraded synchro assemblies, etc. include new second and third gears, a 1-2 slider and a reverse idler gear. The engagement teeth on the gears and slider showed some pretty good wear and even some chipping. Nothing a file probably couldn't have made "useable" but I wasn't looking to end up with something that just worked. A few hundred bucks for peace of mind seemed worth it to just replace them.
A while ago I also picked up a T5 tailshaft housing and main cover out of a S-10 which moves the shifter right up againt the main case rather than near the end of the housing like seen in mustangs. This puts the shifter in the correct location for the truck. I'll swap those on with the rebuild too.
Lastly, I went with a Ram hydraulic TO bearing set-up this time around rather than use another Tilton like I did in the 65. That Tilton piece is still about $400 just for the bearing which I'm not so sold on anymore is really worth the cash. It's a great unit and has performed flawlessly in the mustang but when I see all the other options out there for half or even less the cost it has made me reconsider recognizing the limited miles I actually put on them. Hope I don't regret that choice.
I just noticed I forget to pull out and include in the mix a replacement steel front bearing retainer I bought from Paul G (THE manual trans guy, literally wrote the book) quite a while ago. Better remember to pull that out tonight so I don't forget to use it!
If anyone is really interested in how much this rebuild with the replacement "hard" parts and the additonal upgraded stuff I can get you an accurate cost but aside from the alternate tailshaft housing and cover I've got about $650 in parts plus the TO into it. About a third of what a new base T5 would cost.
Anyway, a couple pics of parts. First the bown up trans and then all the new goodies! Can't wait for the weekend.
A while ago I also picked up a T5 tailshaft housing and main cover out of a S-10 which moves the shifter right up againt the main case rather than near the end of the housing like seen in mustangs. This puts the shifter in the correct location for the truck. I'll swap those on with the rebuild too.
Lastly, I went with a Ram hydraulic TO bearing set-up this time around rather than use another Tilton like I did in the 65. That Tilton piece is still about $400 just for the bearing which I'm not so sold on anymore is really worth the cash. It's a great unit and has performed flawlessly in the mustang but when I see all the other options out there for half or even less the cost it has made me reconsider recognizing the limited miles I actually put on them. Hope I don't regret that choice.
I just noticed I forget to pull out and include in the mix a replacement steel front bearing retainer I bought from Paul G (THE manual trans guy, literally wrote the book) quite a while ago. Better remember to pull that out tonight so I don't forget to use it!
If anyone is really interested in how much this rebuild with the replacement "hard" parts and the additonal upgraded stuff I can get you an accurate cost but aside from the alternate tailshaft housing and cover I've got about $650 in parts plus the TO into it. About a third of what a new base T5 would cost.
Anyway, a couple pics of parts. First the bown up trans and then all the new goodies! Can't wait for the weekend.
Good luck!
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Any help needed ? 
So glad I just said screw it and blew it apart like I did. Doing it took away that stupid, irrational intimidation I think many of us have about a transmission project like this. I mean why is it "so scary" to work on transmissions yet I don't hesitate to do any other stuff like engine rebuilds, custom suspension, full wiring harnesses, etc.? Hope I don't live to regret my new found bravery!
gt289
Active Member
What's the story on the transmission mount at the rear? Have you got that figured out?
So I caved to the "don't pull it from above" crowd and removed the stock crossmember which was a pain in the ass! It was riveted to the frame to the point it was a structural element. I made a removable crossmember to support the trans but that also didn't interfere with the brake master and pedal linkages. I will be adding another fabricated element in a different area to replace any integrity the frame may have lost with its removal. Right now I have the mock engine and trans in the truck as I was making new motor mounts. When I pull it all out here soon I'll post up pics of everything.
gt289
Active Member
My concept was to remove the center section of the factory crossmember, leaving the master attached at the left side. Acquire an entire crossmember (from where I
don't know) and use it in the proper location for the new transmission's rear mount. (Never measured the width in that area of the frame to see it it was even possible
though)
I would have tied the front "stub" where the master and pedals are mounted to the new rear crossmember.
don't know) and use it in the proper location for the new transmission's rear mount. (Never measured the width in that area of the frame to see it it was even possible
though)
I would have tied the front "stub" where the master and pedals are mounted to the new rear crossmember.
You're not far off what I ended up doing, actually. I used part of the original to support the master. Since I am also using a modern boostered MC it falls right in line whith where the transverse mounting point for the T5 locates. This forced the mounting postion on the rail back much further than ideal which in turn required some "gymnastics" in how the shape of the new crossmember evolved. Add to it a new horizontal plane in which the trans mounting pad lay. Nothing is ever easy when it comes time to make it. Also, remember, the 48-50 has a slightly different crossmember than the 51/52, I believe. Different engine mount brackets too.
I'll post pics with measurements, etc. if you like later.
The bottom of your truck looks very clean.
I'll post pics with measurements, etc. if you like later.
The bottom of your truck looks very clean.
Now you're a true gear head!
Well, I almost got it done. Life never cooperates with us does it. Anyway, did manage a couple hours on it today and got the mainshaft all togther as well as replacing the bearings on the counter shaft. Got both back in the case and installed the fifth assembly too. Had to stop there though as I need to pull the mock set-up out of the truck to get the tailshaft housing so I can complete the trans rebuild. Hopefully, I can get to that this week.
Here's just a few pics so I don't break the site rules.
Here's just a few pics so I don't break the site rules.
Forgot I took these. Some pics of some of the parts I replaced. You can see the kind of wear these things exhibit after years of use. As bad as some of it looks all of these would have still "worked" just maybe not given the best shift performance. What I found on the second and third gears I replaced were some rounding of the synchro engagement teeth and even some chips. Third was the worst by far. Somebody seemed to have had problems with that shift!
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Gonna use some " break-in oil " ? Or straight the spec oil with a magnet at the bottom/drain plug ?
There is a large factory installed magnet in the bottom of the case. No need for a break-in and flush routine from everything I have read. I'll just fill it up with Royal Purple Synchromax and call it done.
Mach1 Driver
Well-Known Member
Makes you appreciate the engineering and machining techniques that goes into a tranny doesn't it?
Finally got a chance to get back to finishing up the rebuild on the transmission. Wouldn't you know it I found something else to hold things up. I thought I had all the swap parts to put a S10 tail housing on it to move the shifter position but in all my research nowhere did anything mention aside from the cover/shaft and tail housing you also need a different shifter lug. The standard piece in all the other T5's is too long and won't fit/work with the new housing. Can't install the tail shaft as that lug has to be put in place as the housing is mated to the main box. Can't finishing setting end play/preload on the input shaft because the tail has to be buttoned up first to locate the main shaft. Just ordered one but it won't ship until Monday and I won't see it until at least Thursday. Gets better. It looks like I won't be able to use the short throw shifter I've had sitting around forever either as it doesn't appear it will line up correctly with the new cup position in the shorter lug. I'll see when the new lug gets here. I might be able to modify the base plate to make it work. Otherwise, the cheapest new shifter I've found so far is $250! That's without a lever. Old used OEM pieces have stupid asking prices too. This thing is going to bleed me dry.
Just ordered one but it won't ship until Monday and I won't see it until at least Thursday. Gets better. It looks like I won't be able to use the short throw shifter I've had sitting around forever either as it doesn't appear it will line up correctly with the new cup position in the shorter lug. I'll see when the new lug gets here. I might be able to modify the base plate to make it work. Otherwise, the cheapest new shifter I've found so far is $250! That's without a lever. Old used OEM pieces have stupid asking prices too. This thing is going to bleed me dry.
Aussie67
Well-Known Member
I hear you. Ordered the front suspension parts in December and still don't have them all. Then just realised I ordered the wrong callipers. Last number in the part number was a 6 I ordered an 8. So the car has now been on stands for 3 months. New callipers on the way.
Hang in there. That F1 will be awsome once done.
Hang in there. That F1 will be awsome once done.
So I finally got the part I needed delivered late this week. Got it all buttoned up this morning. Finally. Few pics for those interested. Lots of new parts in there aside from just new bearings and synchros. Wanted to get it together and not have to worry about anything down the road. There's a detail pic of the counter shaft bearing support plate I used with the old stamped piece laying next to it for comparison. The angled gears obviously create a lot of lateral thrust force which can cause the stock plate to stretch letting the counter shaft shift back and forth. This plate fixes that. Beware of Chinese knock-offs of this thing as they seat too tightly and bind against the fifth gear. Get an original from the guy who designed it.
The S10 tail housing and cover plate were "rebuilt" as well with new seals. I took a look at modifying a Foxbody T5 short throw shifter to use with it but too much is off on the base plate to make it viable. I'd have to machine a whole new piece from a blank piece of stock and honestly for the time it would take I found a place I can buy one already assembled for less than the value of my time it would take to make one. I'm holding off ordering one for now until I get the trans and seat mounted in the truck. They make quite an assortment of configurations based on the length of shifter arm to be use. The variants extend the distance of the fulcrum to the ball which reduces/extends the throw. I want to get seated in there and figure out where I want the ball, etc. to get the best shift action possible.
Anyway...PICS!!!
The S10 tail housing and cover plate were "rebuilt" as well with new seals. I took a look at modifying a Foxbody T5 short throw shifter to use with it but too much is off on the base plate to make it viable. I'd have to machine a whole new piece from a blank piece of stock and honestly for the time it would take I found a place I can buy one already assembled for less than the value of my time it would take to make one. I'm holding off ordering one for now until I get the trans and seat mounted in the truck. They make quite an assortment of configurations based on the length of shifter arm to be use. The variants extend the distance of the fulcrum to the ball which reduces/extends the throw. I want to get seated in there and figure out where I want the ball, etc. to get the best shift action possible.
Anyway...PICS!!!