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1952 F1: The Garage Roommate

Select from the following six options, derived from two basic designs w/ colors and options.

  • A

    Votes: 1 7.7%

  • B

    Votes: 7 53.8%

  • C

    Votes: 2 15.4%

  • D

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • E

    Votes: 3 23.1%

  • F

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    13
  • Poll closed .
Jackpot of free time? Not really. More like took advantage of some rare opportunities. While the wife and son were away on vacation I was able to steal an hour here or there when I would ordinarily be spending time with them. Next it has been raining here for over a week. I mean like solid non-stop type stuff so my usual yardwork time got diverted. It's a good thing too because that firewall work took WAY TOO LONG. The castings sanding and polishing has been an on/off thing for quite a while now. It remains a work in progress.

I needed to get the engine bay ready as the countdown has started on engine install day. At least mock-up. I've got the steering column in hand and am about to pull the trigger on the bits I'll use to make the system electric assist. That needs mocked up too before I can move too far forward.
 
I am very seriously considering replacing the original, heavy steel inner fender panels with chrome moly tubing, essentially making a front end roll cage. Simple tubes (left and right) connected to a front hoop which would replace the radiator support. Why? Future plans for the truck. Second, and really the main driver, is to enable the use of a custom low profile radiator. The stock rad sits really tall in the truck. Like it would block the view of the blower if looking straight on. With the idea I am toying around with I could incorporate a much shorter (in height) radiator and make it wider instead. Net result would be better cooling efficiency (an issue with flatheads) and also a cosmetic win as I could make it "disappear" and not so "in your face".

"Down the road" plans call for some modern twin turbo/big blower engine. When that time comes I could simply finish out the necessary cage work in the rest of the truck, tying it all together.
 
After way too much time reviewing as many possible electric steering options as I could find, I ordered a slew of stuff this morning to get that ball rolling. I wasthisclose to going with the Flaming River system but just couldn't stomach the inflated cost for what it is. It is right there with the EPAS brand stuff once you start adding in couplers, shafts and u-joints. An easy $1300+ all in. Pretty sure I can get it all done, steering wheel to rack for about a third and that is with speed and /or steering effort automatic compensation.

Ordered a set of stainless center drop headers too. Between those and the original cast Fenton headers I already have I should be able to find something that accommodates the new steering set-up well.

center dump.jpg
 
Make sure you share with the rest of the class you research on the electric power steering options!
 
I've been watching the use of electric steering in the aftermarket for quite a while. Also have driven plenty of newer cars with it by now. It's become a lot more refined. More natural feeling at the wheel.

So I finally took the time to see how it all was engineered. It's actually very simple stuff. Stuff I am somewhat familiar with from my industrial tech days. After all, it's just electric motor controls and various sensor inputs. That's what sold me when I knew I could understand it and piece together the bits as I saw fit. I'm never really happy just buying and using stuff "as is". My sole hold up was I didn't want to lose the feel for the road at the wheel and/or worse have too much assist at speed.

So to keep the cost down and make installation into a 70 year old truck easier I elected to get a very basic motor/gearbox set-up with enough umph for the application and upgrade the controls to include speed input modulation to control the level of assist based on driving conditions. Also using hardware that incorporates torque measurement so force at the steering wheel could also be used to regulate things if I found that to be more to my liking. Hell, might even be able to wire up both without too much effort!

I was leaning Flaming River as they have as standard a potentiometer to manually regulate assist but do have the ability to incorporate a speed sensor as a better option. Price tag is simply out of line though. The EPAS stuff is nice and proven but they still use that manual assist knob and have a big price tag. There are a number of other outfits offering systems billed as for ATVs or dune buggies or such that actually utilize a motor/gear drive that would work in things like classic mustangs, etc. Just a matter of vehicle weight at the front corners and, to a degree, tire sizing. Those that are capable carry a price tag a bit above half that of FR or EPAS. Still a good bit mote than needs to be spent, IMHO.

I got a great deal on an early Chevy Equinox unit (same as a Saturn Vue but apparently not as well known for these swaps) that looks and works as good as new from a low mileage wreck (with a warranty even!). Bought a cheap stainless tilt steering column off E-Bay that will be butchered and remade for the purpose. I have some steering bits laying about here I can likely use but I may elect to get at least one new piece of SS shaft material as it will exposed underhood and I hate corrosion more than I do grime. I will need to get a couple u-joints and a rod end to support the shaft. The input and output shafts on the unit itself are weird sizes too so have to work that out. I'm thinking maybe $300 in joints, couplers, a shaft and other misc. is likely needed. There is a proven device made for years by a guy in Portugal that has evolved to do almost everything I want in terms of electronic control that is available for about $100. I'll start there. Added up, column, unit, control and mech bits I'm just over $500. The column I bought even had a 9 hole steering wheel adapter with it. I can buy a nice wheel for under $150 and be at, call it $700 with a complete electric system in all stainless. Steering wheel all the way to the rack. That's less than half the cost of a system from EPAS for a specific application that does not have automatic assist compensation or a steering wheel and its adaptor. I'm good with that.

And the best part? I can stuff it all up high under the dash where it will never be seen.
 
Nice, looks like you have been doing lots of research. What transmission are you putting behind the flatly? I assume is has a spot for electronic speed sensor? While I will probably utilize the stock PS box In my Bronco, I want to move towards the electric path for my other projects. Heck if I had to do it again the fastback would have electric PS.
 
Using a T5 again in this one like the mustang. It can handle the torque and is small, plus gives me the needed overdrive. Using another early Foxbody V8 unit but swapping out the tailshaft with one from a S-10 which moves the shifter location forward quite a bit. Otherwise the stick would locate about the middle of the stock bench seat! With the other location it should pop up real close to the old stock placement. Two piece "bellhousing" which is standard truck flathead stuff plus an adapter plate between them and the trans. It's fairly compact all considered. Intend to use a hydraulic throw out bearing again. Although, once I can mock up the engine trans location there is a very real chance I could use the stock linkage. It is really impressively simple but at the same time very stout and solidly mounted. I'm just spoiled by the easy of the hydraulic stuff at this point I don't know if I want to go old school there.

Yes, I will likely be using an electric speedo set-up in the trans although I'm really starting to lean to a custom built Dakota Digital gauge assembly and if I go that route I will simply use a GPS sensor for the speedo. For the steering I can also use a GPS signal or a Halls effect proximity switch arrangement on either a wheel (rotor) or the driveshaft. Leaning toward the latter for the steering. Simple and accurate.
 
I've got one of these rigs too. ('48) Had it for about 6 years now.
Currently taking stuff off the engine to yank it for a rebuild.

IMG_1464.JPGF-1 alternator.JPG
 
Horseplay said:
Nice looking truck. 3 speed on the floor? Get ready for some sticker shock. Even a basic refresh gets pricey quick on a flathead.
Click to expand...
Yup, 3 on the floor. Got the engine quote about 3 years back. I don’t think it’s one I want to “learn” on so they’re welcome to it.....
 
I was really trying to avoid it but I finally gave in and bought a plastic mock-up engine block. With all the chassis modifications and now trying to design and build a custom steering system I simply needed to put the engine in place to figure out how to make all the bits and brackets for the linkage and the initial exhaust bends. I can also now see how the transmission will locate and how I'll need to modify the mid-crossmember/trans-support. Then I can also do a proper job of designing the new pedals and linkages for the brake and clutch masters. I now see I needed this damn plastic block a long time ago!

I also learned my math skills are lacking as the top of the engine stack is about three inches lower than I had originally calculated. That's a real problem because its still too tall to fit under the hood but not tall enough to be cool! Have to figure out what to do about that.

Anyway, a pic of a mocked-up engine in the truck!
mock up.jpg
 
I like the idea of having the plastic blocks for markup, I don’t like the prices they get for those things! I guess if you are going to use the same style engine for a couple projects it’s easier to swallow.

As for the height, just have three billet aluminum carb spacers machined, think of the extra fuel/air velocity. Problem solved.

Let me know how I can spend more of your money!
 
Worst part about having to buy the block was I ran across one about a year ago on Craigslist that a guy was selling that also had a set of plastic Ardun heads and valve covers to go with it for about half what I paid for just the block. I could have bought that and resold it for a profit when I was done with it. But NOOooo, for once in my life got cheap and passed on it. Idiot.
 
Had a bit of time this morning so I bolted the two piece bellhousing, the adapter plate and the T5 main case to the block to see how things will fit with the stock crossmember in place. Happily its not too bad. It looks like the floor will not need any modification at all other than cutting a hold for the shifter. The engine/trans need to move back another 1/2" or so but with the block level at ride height the crossmember sits about a 1/2" too high and forward. Plan is to cut a notch into it give me the needed clearance and then cut up some 3/16" steel to box it all in and weld it up. This should allow me to keep the original pedal set-up which is integral to the crossmember. I can then modify and reuse the same mounting area on the piece to mount a new dual bowl brake master and somehow engineer in a master for a hydraulic clutch.

Pretty pleased with how I think I can make it all work. Really happy I can leave the stock piece in place and retain the structural integrity it provides the frame. Time to get dirty...

The pics
trans fit 3.jpgtrans fit 1.jpgtrans fit 2.jpg
 
So I'm out in the garage just adding to the list of independent little projects for the truck. I've got the underhood portion of the steering linkage all figured out and the parts in hand. Same for the inside the cab side including an Ididit style SS tilt column, a electric set-up out of an Equinox and some bits to connect the odd shafts of the GM unit to the wheel shaft and down to the front.

So here's the rub. I DO NOT WANT TO SEE the electric assist stuff. Just about every install I've seen has some or all of the drive hanging off the column in pretty plain sight. I get a little is likely necessary but I want to avoid it as much as I can. Here's what a stock column looks like. Just imagine wrapping an electric motor and gear box around that with it out in the open. Yuck.

F1 steering column.jpg

So I needed a solution. A little thought and then internet search later and I have a plan. There is an aftermarket part rodders have been using in the tight confines of early hot rods that off sets the input and output heights of steering shafts which would do just what I want. Issue is they want like $650 for one! I've got everything I need to build my own on order now for about $200 and that was with some excess aluminum stock and a big chuck of UHMW that I will have left over for other projects. Here's the part I'm writing about.

steer clear.jpg

Going this route will let me tuck the electric unit way up under the dash as I can run the column up against the dash lip, closer to horizontal to the floor, using the tilt function to give me the angle needed at the wheel. Then the offset piece can drop the out put shaft height low on the firewall to keep it out of your face underhood and in a good position to connect to the rack. I've always intended to make a lower dash extension to curve it back under like the top (if you look at that first interior pic above, this lower piece will come down about as far as that underdash gauge) which would have the hole through which the column would disappear.

Sorry, for being so long winded (what's new). Just wanted to lay out the plan while fresh in my mind. Thoughts?
 
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