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65 FB Scratch Build
- Thread starter 65-408
- Start date
blown66
Member
Just a amazing build :thu thanks for sharing it with us. cant wait for the next up date 
art
art
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
All I can say :thu :thu :thu :thu :thu
RESPECT man.
RESPECT man.
Front suspension and brakes:
Homemade Opentracker knock-off UCA, LCA, and Perches:
The craigslist southbend (my favorite tool):
Shafts next
Learned to single point thread on the lathe for this job, Im an engineer, not a machinist
Welded in the sleeves, sacraficed a set of bearings to do this and keep everything aligned
Another Craigslist find, the Rng Fu mill/drill to add the flats and holes in the UCA shafts
Perches next
Same bearing sleeves as the UCAs again used the scraficial bearings for welding
LCAs
Stainless Steel, Teflon lined spherical bearings
LCA Adjusters
Adjustable Strut Rods, this is a copy of someone elses version
Turnbuckles from Midwest Control, Heims from Summit
New hole required in the strut bracket
Support Sleeves and reinforcement welds
Front Brakes - Wilwood bracket, Caliper, Rotor (from their mustang kit), I designed the rotor hat and had it made at work to utilize those components with the stock drum hubs and not have the Wilwood kit wheel offset
Homemade adjustable struts to temporarily replace springs and have the car at ride height without motor weight
This was a lot of work, but fun and it turned out pretty well. Keep your fingers crossed that all of my homemade parts stay together!
Homemade Opentracker knock-off UCA, LCA, and Perches:
The craigslist southbend (my favorite tool):
Shafts next
Learned to single point thread on the lathe for this job, Im an engineer, not a machinist
Welded in the sleeves, sacraficed a set of bearings to do this and keep everything aligned
Another Craigslist find, the Rng Fu mill/drill to add the flats and holes in the UCA shafts
Perches next
Same bearing sleeves as the UCAs again used the scraficial bearings for welding
LCAs
Stainless Steel, Teflon lined spherical bearings
LCA Adjusters
Adjustable Strut Rods, this is a copy of someone elses version
Turnbuckles from Midwest Control, Heims from Summit
New hole required in the strut bracket
Support Sleeves and reinforcement welds
Front Brakes - Wilwood bracket, Caliper, Rotor (from their mustang kit), I designed the rotor hat and had it made at work to utilize those components with the stock drum hubs and not have the Wilwood kit wheel offset
Homemade adjustable struts to temporarily replace springs and have the car at ride height without motor weight
This was a lot of work, but fun and it turned out pretty well. Keep your fingers crossed that all of my homemade parts stay together!
Last edited by a moderator:
timbeam
Member
Very impressive!! :thu...or should I say FABulous! (sorry...)
"Coupe" said:
Don't really plan on racing, maybe I will someday if I ever get into it... not sure how much bending is going on in the arms anyways or if it would really effect anything.
If you want to make a set or rods, let me know, I will dig up the specific parts that I used...
That would be awesome cool!
I am getting ready to take my front suspension off and sandblast that portion of the car and replace all of the suspension. The only part I did not buy were the rods.
I purchased the roller spring perches and basic upper arms from OTR and my lowers are new stock Moogs that could benefit from those spherical bearings that you installed, so if you see a PN for those that would be great :roll.
Thanks!!!
I am getting ready to take my front suspension off and sandblast that portion of the car and replace all of the suspension. The only part I did not buy were the rods.
I purchased the roller spring perches and basic upper arms from OTR and my lowers are new stock Moogs that could benefit from those spherical bearings that you installed, so if you see a PN for those that would be great :roll.
Thanks!!!
Next up, the 9 inch rear:
My first call was to my dads neighbor of 35 years, who has had a side business out of his house forever building, you guessed it, custom rear ends, mostly fords. It is always nice to know someone. He is retired now and doesnt do much anymore, but still does the occasional job when someone brings him something. Called him up to see what to look for in a housing and the response was, I have one here that someone gave me, you can have it if you want it. I asked how wide it was, as the 65/66 were pretty narrow, he says, if its too wide, we will narrow it, no problem, we have the technology. We worked out a deal, he would supply labor to build my rear and donate the housing and center section and I would help him rebuild his porch roof.
Here is the process:
Cut off and true up the ends. This was a weird housing as it had flat spots in like the middle of the tubes. Looked to be that way from the factory, he would typically cut off the tubes closer to the flanges, but for this one we decided to cut in the middle of the flat spots. We took about 4 inches out of each side. This is a special fixture he has for getting the flanges in the right place.
Ends are welded back on using another fixture to keep everything aligned. The fixture is a solid bar that goes all the way thru with plates and bushings that pick up on the flange and center section bearing bores. He has done more than a few of these, it came out perfect, axles slid right in. It is interesting, because there was an article in mustang monthly a few months back that showed new currie housings having to be straightened in a giant press after welding.
He left the bar in even while welding on the Heidts 4-link brackets:
Paint:
On to the Center Section:
New 31 spline Yukon Traction Lock from jeffs bronco graveyard, ver nice unit with a billet steel hat (a known weak spot on traction locks):
New performance gearset from Motive, very nice set, lapped out of the box:
Pinion Carrier:
The pinion support, this is what makes the 9 inch ford rear so strong, most pinions are cantilevered:
Backlash set to .008 to .010, checked at 3 points:
New 31 spline Moser Axles:
Wilwood 12 inch discs with internal parking brakes. These were a PITA to install behind the axle flange, especially since the axle access hole was too small for a standard socket, had to turn the OD of a deep socket to get it thru the hole:
Done:
4-Link Install:
Adjustable billet Coil-overs and Panhard Bar:
The kit from Heidts is pretty nice, I know its not a 3-link or a watts, but it is a nice alternative, to leafs, providing more adjustment for approximately the same money as replacing everything in a leaf setup, which is where I started.
My first call was to my dads neighbor of 35 years, who has had a side business out of his house forever building, you guessed it, custom rear ends, mostly fords. It is always nice to know someone. He is retired now and doesnt do much anymore, but still does the occasional job when someone brings him something. Called him up to see what to look for in a housing and the response was, I have one here that someone gave me, you can have it if you want it. I asked how wide it was, as the 65/66 were pretty narrow, he says, if its too wide, we will narrow it, no problem, we have the technology. We worked out a deal, he would supply labor to build my rear and donate the housing and center section and I would help him rebuild his porch roof.
Here is the process:
Cut off and true up the ends. This was a weird housing as it had flat spots in like the middle of the tubes. Looked to be that way from the factory, he would typically cut off the tubes closer to the flanges, but for this one we decided to cut in the middle of the flat spots. We took about 4 inches out of each side. This is a special fixture he has for getting the flanges in the right place.
Ends are welded back on using another fixture to keep everything aligned. The fixture is a solid bar that goes all the way thru with plates and bushings that pick up on the flange and center section bearing bores. He has done more than a few of these, it came out perfect, axles slid right in. It is interesting, because there was an article in mustang monthly a few months back that showed new currie housings having to be straightened in a giant press after welding.
He left the bar in even while welding on the Heidts 4-link brackets:
Paint:
On to the Center Section:
New 31 spline Yukon Traction Lock from jeffs bronco graveyard, ver nice unit with a billet steel hat (a known weak spot on traction locks):
New performance gearset from Motive, very nice set, lapped out of the box:
Pinion Carrier:
The pinion support, this is what makes the 9 inch ford rear so strong, most pinions are cantilevered:
Backlash set to .008 to .010, checked at 3 points:
New 31 spline Moser Axles:
Wilwood 12 inch discs with internal parking brakes. These were a PITA to install behind the axle flange, especially since the axle access hole was too small for a standard socket, had to turn the OD of a deep socket to get it thru the hole:
Done:
4-Link Install:
Adjustable billet Coil-overs and Panhard Bar:
The kit from Heidts is pretty nice, I know its not a 3-link or a watts, but it is a nice alternative, to leafs, providing more adjustment for approximately the same money as replacing everything in a leaf setup, which is where I started.
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One image shows what looks like drum brakes behind the rotor, and later on, it is not there.
What am I missing?
What am I missing?
Last edited by a moderator:
G tech cars
New Member
Are you planing exhaust out the rear? looks tight, I am sure it can be done..
Gene www.gtechcars.com
Gene www.gtechcars.com
janschutz
Corn Hauler
I believe those are the parking brake pads and are inside the rotor hub."Midlife" said:One image shows what looks like drum brakes behind the rotor, and later on, it is not there.
What am I missing?
Last edited by a moderator:
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Yep....parking brakes...used on several vehicles.