65 FB Scratch Build

[daveSanborn]

Notice the coilover's double-eared top mount. Notice the coilover's rear mount. Your fab skills will allow you to improve upon the (IMO) poor design of the lower mount. I originally desinged my coilover lower attach points/mounts VERY similar to the as pictured Heidt's setup, but could watch the coilover lower mount bolt move up and down while jacking up the car. It only moved a small amount, but IMO it shouldn't move at all. The design of the top mount is perfect and that's the design I used to modify my lower mount.

 

[65-408]

Notice the coilover's double-eared top mount. Notice the coilover's rear mount. Your fab skills will allow you to improve upon the (IMO) poor design of the lower mount. I originally desinged my coilover lower attach points/mounts VERY similar to the as pictured Heidt's setup, but could watch the coilover lower mount bolt move up and down while jacking up the car. It only moved a small amount, but IMO it shouldn't move at all. The design of the top mount is perfect and that's the design I used to modify my lower mount.

Agreed, I'm not loving it... the cantilevered bolt does go thru a welded in sleeve that provides support, but it could be improved, I will have to think about that one...

 

[stangg]

Agreed, I'm not loving it... the cantilevered bolt does go thru a welded in sleeve that provides support, but it could be improved, I will have to think about that one...

Looking at your other pics, I don't think it's too bad since the sleaves appear to be welded to each other. If so, then that adds stiffness to the mount and probably keeps it from deflecting.

Mine started bending after just 75-100 miles at the bottom of the mount until I welded the gusset to a bolts that stiffens that whole section. No more deflection after 4K miles. (not pretty, but effective)
link to shock mount
I don't think the bolt being in single shear is really an issue here.

 

[daveSanborn]

Looking at your other pics, I don't think it's too bad since the sleaves appear to be welded to each other. If so, then that adds stiffness to the mount and probably keeps it from deflecting.

Mine started bending after just 75-100 miles at the bottom of the mount until I welded the gusset to a bolts that stiffens that whole section. No more deflection after 4K miles. (not pretty, but effective)
link to shock mount
I don't think the bolt being in single shear is really an issue here.

Nice picture.... and the gusset looks great to me! Without that gusset though.... like you said, within 75-100 miles the bolt in the lower mount was moving/bending. My 4link looked almost identical to yours.... without the gusset.... and I was experiencing the exact same thing. During initial construction, on the rear side of my bracket I welded a thick spacer/sleeve that I thought would prevent the bolt from moving up and down, but it didn't. Subsequently I fabbed a double eared lower mount that simply bolted into the original mounts' bolt hole.

Here's the double-eared lower mount bracket that I fabbed.

Your gusseted bolt looks to me like it will work just fine.

 

[65-408]

Steering Box Rebuild:

In the spirit of keep it simple stupid, I am keeping the original 19:1 speer-o-matic manual box, adding a quick turn pitman and Idler. Here is the rebuild process. Followed instructions and advise on www.stangerssite.com. I didnt need to replace any parts, just regreased, seals, re-assemble and regreased. These are cool little boxes, a mechanical engineers dream, bearings, re-circulating ball screw, worm and sector gear:

Roller Idler with quick turn arm:

Hand pack the bearings prior to assembly, the grease fitting is not effective

 

[fordrule]

awesome work

 

[65-408]

Finally got the front end in the ballpark regarding alignment using my Longacre gauge. Bought the wheels first, then mounted them and made some cardboard tire cross-sections to put on the wheel in order to check tire clearances...

I believe I can get away with 235's up front, probably due to the addition of the LCA camber adjusters...

Anyways, I went with 17x8 (4.5" BS) Vintage 45's, Nitto 555 in 235/45/17 all around...

Very nice wheels, they come with bright raw aluminum (blasted) centers. Too bright for me, plus they looked impossible to keep clean. I painted mine with Rustoleum textured dark pewter...

 

[fordrule]

i have been following your build. I might be borrowing some of your ideas..I do like the fact you used the 19:1 box. thats the same one that is in mine and just add the shelby pitman and roller idler. I am sure its not going to be half bad. did you already buy the rest of the suspension and steering?

 

[65-408]

i have been following your build. I might be borrowing some of your ideas..I do like the fact you used the 19:1 box. thats the same one that is in mine and just add the shelby pitman and roller idler. I am sure its not going to be half bad. did you already buy the rest of the suspension and steering?

I made my own roller perches, uppers, lowers, adjustable strut rods, and LCA camber adjuster plates. It is all shown at the top of this thread, alot of work, but fun. Hopefully it stays together...

Last night, I got the rear bumper and lights test fit... Lights fit good, bumper not so good... It is a dynacorn repop, fits OK, except for not matching the body radius at all... is this a common problem? will have to look at some originals to see how the fit was...

 

[AzPete]

Looks normal for repros.....unfortunately. At one time fairly recently, there was one company making good one but I cannot remember who carried them....or if they are still out there.

 

[70_Fastback]

Wow, that is WAY off. That's a bummer.

 

[65-408]

Got the tires mounted, I like the fit, will likely need to roll the fenders a bit... 17x8 vintage 45's w/ 4.5" BS, centers painted with rustoleum dark pewter textured, tires are Nitto 555, 235/45/17 all around. I have open tracker style LCA camber adjusters installed which brings the UCA in a far as possible and probably makes the 235's possible on the front...

 

[70_Fastback]

Nice! Did you load the suspension with a floor jack, or something, to more closely simulate ride height?

I REALLY like the wheels & the color!

 

[65-408]

no springs... I made threaded struts to mount in place of the rear coilovers and front shocks so I could have it at ride height independant of the weight... hopefully the fronts can take the weight of the motor cause that is coming next...

 

[Grabber70Mach]

Looks nice I like your choice for the rims. :thu

 

[65-408]

I am using an aluminum Wilwood brake Master, which appears to be a direct bolt on. For the clutch, I have a Mcleod hydraulic throwout bearing. They recommend a 6:1 pedal ratio, with a 3/4 inch diameter master with 1 inch of travel

This is the mods I made to mount the clutch master

Hole in the firewall

Greenlee punch to make the 1.5 inch hole in the bracket

Bracket welded in with bolts tacked on the back to act as studs

With the brake master

Cut off the return spring bracket (so I could add an adjustable pedal stop at 1 inch of travel) and added a boss for the master pushrod

In the car, everything seems to line up

The stock brake master pushrod was a little short, but the engagement pocket was deep in the master, so I put a 1/2 inch long spacer in the pocket. Both pedals work really well.

 

[Fast68back]

Nice work!

 

[jtfx6552]

The doors, fenders, hood, valance, trunk, etc are rough fit. The doors needed to be cut on the bottom edges some, the fenders needed lots of rework to fix the door gap, door to rear quarter was perfect, trunk lid needed some fitting as well.

Did your trunk to rear window transition panel fit so nice right off the bat, or did you rework it to get it to line up with the 1/4s?

I'm in process of replacing the whole back of my fastback, but I have a pair of NOS 1/4s. The dynacorn transition pan contour doesn't match very well at all? If the window channel is lined up, then the front of the pan sits up about an inch above the 1/4 at the sides where the lead originally filled the recessed area? Looks like I could maybe just mash it down in there?

Further, If I "hook" the transition pan over the 1/4s inside the trunk edge like they are supposed to fit, the window edge doesn't line up?

I'm wondering if this would go together easier with dynacorn 1/4s?

Anyway, your pics look amazing, I thought you'd have to slice and dice repro stuff to assemble it, but everything looks like you got it together real nice.

 

[65-408]

Did your trunk to rear window transition panel fit so nice right off the bat, or did you rework it to get it to line up with the 1/4s?

I'm in process of replacing the whole back of my fastback, but I have a pair of NOS 1/4s. The dynacorn transition pan contour doesn't match very well at all? If the window channel is lined up, then the front of the pan sits up about an inch above the 1/4 at the sides where the lead originally filled the recessed area? Looks like I could maybe just mash it down in there?

Further, If I "hook" the transition pan over the 1/4s inside the trunk edge like they are supposed to fit, the window edge doesn't line up?

I'm wondering if this would go together easier with dynacorn 1/4s?

Anyway, your pics look amazing, I thought you'd have to slice and dice repro stuff to assemble it, but everything looks like you got it together real nice.

I would have to say that for the price, everything fit extremely well. But there was alot of massaging (trimming, hammering and clamping) during the build. I wouldn't expect everything to just drop in, but if you can get it there with some clamps without screwing up something else, go with it...

 

[jtfx6552]

65 FB Scratch Build

I would have to say that for the price, everything fit extremely well. But there was alot of massaging (trimming, hammering and clamping) during the build. I wouldn't expect everything to just drop in, but if you can get it there with some clamps without screwing up something else, go with it...

Are you far enough along to have installed the rear window?

The replacement panel has an angle on the back recess, where the original is at 90 degrees. I'm wondering if the weatherstripping will be hard to cram in there?