65 FB Scratch Build

[Fst Blk]

Shave your shock towers. That should be gravy enlight of what you have already accomplished.
Bill

 

[66benchcoupe]

Wow, 1/8" clearance is tight. I hope those engine mounts are solid!

Robert

 

[monkeystash]

Are these Hooker #6208? Would your clearances be better at stock motor mount height? Also, will your stock hood close, or are you using a different hood? BTW, amazing engine!

 

[65-408]

yes, 6208 sounds right... It doesn't look like the height will help as the down tubes on the front 2 cylinders on each side are where it is tight, right behind where the UCA mounts... I will probably try and locally grind and fill it to get a little more clearance, but I want to wait till I get everything in the correnct position.

I have a shelby hood and most likely it won't close due to the Victor jr. I have a drop base air cleaner base, we'll see... I have seen where people mill the top surface of the victor jr at a slight down angle, to drop the front of the air cleaner, will have to see how much I need. Would really like to keep it...

 

[65-408]

OK, Transmission next. Everyone says to put it in on the motor and raise the back of the car, but since I have the car up on the dollys it seemed reasonable to try from underneath. I made my floor jack into a ghetto low profile transmission jack and it ended up working out really well... Putting the car up on the dolleys with the 2x10's was the best thing I ever did, really easy to get underneath to do stuff...

Had the strap from the old baby car seat...

and I'm sure I won't escape a comment on the pizza box wheels, trying to keep some of the dust off the new wheels;;;

The TKO hit in all the expected places. Need to raise the tunnel and mover the shifter opening:

I got this cross member from someone on VMF a while back, I believe it is from a Kiesler kit... anyways I only have about 3/8" of space for the 1.7" hight transmission mount:

 

[Midlife]

Where did you find those custom wheel covers? Those are wicked!

 

[AtlantaSteve]

Brake and fuel lines are done, here are some pics of the way I ran them (down the rocker):

Help me understand this picture...My memory of the car might be failing me, but aren't these lines running directly under the floor sheet-metal? If so, how are you attaching those clamps? If you put, say, a sheet-metal screw right into it, wouldn't they be poking up into the floor-board, like, right into the carpet? Or am I imagining the design of the car wrong?

And just from curiosity, where did you get the line clamps,

Thanks!

 

[65-408]

Help me understand this picture...My memory of the car might be failing me, but aren't these lines running directly under the floor sheet-metal? If so, how are you attaching those clamps? If you put, say, a sheet-metal screw right into it, wouldn't they be poking up into the floor-board, like, right into the carpet? Or am I imagining the design of the car wrong?

And just from curiosity, where did you get the line clamps,

Thanks!

You are correct, currently there is a sheetmetal screw going up through the floor... when I dis-assemble, I will probably drop a button head down thru the hole and tack it in to act as a stud and not disturb the carpet... The clips came from mcmaster (as singles), I cut off a 3/16 and weleded it to the end of the 3/8" to make the doubles...

 

[65-408]

Where did you find those custom wheel covers? Those are wicked!

Those puppies are very rare, as far as I know they are they only set in the world... designed and fabricated then myself and they are oven fresh...

 

[70_Fastback]

You are correct, currently there is a sheetmetal screw going up through the floor... when I dis-assemble, I will probably drop a button head down thru the hole and tack it in to act as a stud and not disturb the carpet... The clips came from mcmaster (as singles), I cut off a 3/16 and weleded it to the end of the 3/8" to make the doubles...

Place a clamp or 2 under the seat platform area - the srews won't be affecting the carpet, etc.

 

[65-408]

Relocated the shifter opening 3/4" to the passenger side and 5/8" forward:

Surgery using one of my faverite tools, the 1950's black and decker jig saw (they don't make them like this anymore!):

I was going to leave it attached at the front and back and just push up, but when I pushed up, it didn't really bend right, so I just cut it off, this type of cut should be easier to fix than just jutting a giant hole:

Overall, I would say that the tunnel had to go up about 1.25", but I may still notch the floor support where it hits the trans top corner which will drop it about a 1/2"

Drive line is at 3.5 degrees with the motor dropped 1/2"...

 

[65-408]

Coming up with an air cleaner solution was next. I think this was a 2" high 14" round on a 3/4" drop base. It is touching on both sides with no cover and the motor is dropped 1/2".

So I decided to go an oval cause it looked like it would fit up in the shelby scoop perfectly. I called K&N and they said that the std 1.75" tall oval element would not support a 750 cfm carb. I found a 2.5" high version at Branda along with a blank base plate and a plain aluminum cast cover. I built in a .600" drop, anymore would start intefering with the carb linkage. The little cylinders are for the adjusta-jet needles and the float adjusters (on the top of the carb). The pan gets bolted to the carb (in the center) and the cover gets bolted to the stand-offs on the pan. There is about 1/8" clearance to the scoop at the front. I think I will mill a bit off the intake manifold when I get the motor out again.

 

[70_Fastback]

Nice! Love your build.

 

[Fast68back]

Nice work!

 

[65-408]

Pulled the Victor Jr. yesterday and stuck it on the Rong Fu Mill/Drill. I milled the carb surface at a slight angle to drop the front of the air cleaner for more clearance with the scoop. overall I took about 5/16" off the back and 3/8" off the front, which should drop the front of the air cleaner a little over .5". Put it back on and looks like it should work great...

 

[Horseplay]

I'm sure you are well aware of this but you are sacrificing a fair amount of HP this way. I realize there are trade-offs here like getting things to fit under the hood. Between milling the intake and the inability to run a spacer/insulator between it and the carb you have surely lost double digit H.P.

All that said, very impressive work on the air cleaner assembly and all!

 

[AzPete]

With it sloped now, make sure the carb mounting bolts secure it properly. They were originally set at the correct angle for the original surface which you changed.

 

[65-408]

With it sloped now, make sure the carb mounting bolts secure it properly. They were originally set at the correct angle for the original surface which you changed.

that is why I didn't go crazy with the slope, it is only about 1/16" across the face...

 

[65-408]

Decided to go with a 3.5" AL driveshaft. Ordered it thru the Axle Exchange in NJ, they balanced it with my slip yoke installed. They turned it around in 3 days after recieving my yoke. Came with spicer u-joints installed. Welds look nice and the ends are forged... Perfect fit and it was a bit of an odd-ball as the Tremec yoke is a 1330 and the rear pinion is the a 1310 "Big Ford" (with 1 1/8" caps). They should get extra credit for having one of the most politically incorrect company logos...

 

[B67FSTB]

:thu :thu TOP driveshaft !!!

I love the sticker too. :thu