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70_Fastback: RAT ROD - 193x Ford / 1942 GMC Truck

"lethal289" said:
Nice job J. What kind of machine are you using? What accessories? :10

I'm using a, 10 year old, 220-V Centery Wire feed mig welder. No accessories except for myself.
 
Finally got to see the "whole" picture yesterday. I got to drop the cab down on the frame and "roll" it outside (with the help of my floor jack).

All I can say is that I REALLY LIKE IT. Exactly what I was going for! Imagine that?!?

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The white wall tire at the rear is actually the front tire. I'll eventually be getting the nostalgia "cheater slicks" white walls for the rear which are about 31" tall.
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The (non) lightening holes help the front a lot I think.
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The cab to frame relationship is perfect.
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The way it sets, I won't even have to channel the cab now - so I won't lose any additional foot room/height inside the cab. Just need to take out the old rot and build a new floor.

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Front look
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When I saw the first picture, I wondered how that rear tire was supporting the truck!
 
Another busy, productive weekend down. I didn't get to my 4-link brackts like I wanted, largly due to not having enough weekend. But I did get the rear cross member for the shocks mount comleted and tacked in. Probably getting a little too decorative on everything since it's going to be inside of the bed... just makes me want to run an open bed now :)

Started again with some matching 2x4 rec tubing. Had to pie cut and bend in place to form my curve. Note the creative use of the ratcheting tie down straps.

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Welded, cleaned and smoothed.
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Nice arch to it
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Again, jumping ahead because I didn't stop for picture breaks. Cross member is formed and tacked in place temporarily.
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And yes, the pumpkin center chunk is offset as shown - due to the nature of the 9"
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With coilovers installed (the wood 2x4 is actually holding the truck up by the shocks)
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The rear end is rolled forward for now to clear the 2x4.
 
Next on the agenda was starting to fabricate the watts link. I decided to go with a fixed position center pivot mount. So I had to create a "cool" bracket for it.

Started again with 1/4" steel plate. Used the band saw (my poor band saw is hating me after this weekend. I even had to put new bearings in one of the steel drive wheels that turns the blade) to cut out my starting shape and used cardboard to figure out the template for the mating piece(s):
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Second piece is now figured out and layed out. It's 1/8" steel since I have to curve it by hand.
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Curved to match
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-- Note that when I welded the two flat portions together, I put in an 1/8" spacer to leave a "gap" so I would get maximum weld penetration.


And YET again I jumped ahead with no pics of the in between pieces on the sides, etc. sorry.

Welded up center bracket
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Ground down and smoothed
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I even welded the inside as far as the gun would let me.
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Turned out pretty slick
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Now to illustrate where the bracket goes...

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Curved to clear the pumpkin
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This will be the pivot point of the Watts Link.
 
To continue on with the watts link pivot, I headed back to my band saw to cut out the center pivot rotatig bracket. All 1/4" steel again.

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1-1/4" center hole for center support DOM tube
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Guess what, I jumped ahead again. I welded in the piece of tubing - leaving a 1/4" extension past the bracket faces. And for now I went with bronze flange bushings. I was going to press in some sealed roller bearings, etc, etc but decided against it (for now). There is also a bronze thrust washer/bearing between the pivot & the housing.

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Center pivot bolt is a grade 8, 3/4" diameter bolt - it will be back welded on the drop down pivot housing.
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Next will be making the extension brackets to come off of the axle tubes and tie the tubular arms into. They are going to have to extend a fair amount from the axle tube, so I need to think about them some as they will have to be fairly heavy.

So far so good.
 
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