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70_Fastback: RAT ROD - 193x Ford / 1942 GMC Truck

"70_Fastback" said:
But I am going to save some cash and get a dual top for the tunnel ram - the single just looks funny with that physically large of an engine below it. It's a visual bottleneck.
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Good call!!!!
 
Big J, I think you need your own reality TV show. Watching a build like this with the American Badass at the helm would be awesome. That is some kinda good freakin work. Sick.
 
Thanks Ron!

But I think my ugly mug would break the camera - and then I would be S.O.L. and have to lose rat rod budget to pay for a new camera! :ecit
 
"daveSanborn" said:
I only know this because the coil springs on my car are similar to what you're currently using. The rear end ride is "harsh" and the body absorbs WAY TOO MUCH. Replacing the coil springs is on my list of things to do.
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Hey Dave - my dad gave the box full of coil springs that came with the other shocks. They are all different. Some are longer, some are shorter - and all have varying coil diameters. But luckily they all have a matched mate!

I am just going to have to do the "Trial & Error" method and see which ones work best. I need to get a darn spanner wrench so I can stop using my gynormous channel locks. I am starting to 'mar' up the adjustment nut finish.
 
Holy Chit, thats some impressive stuff J. Question, do you plan on tunneling the cab in order to get the drive shaft in? By the looks of this pic, it would have to go right through the seat.

26_28_07_10_11_19_39_3.JPG
 
"lethal289" said:
Holy Chit, thats some impressive stuff J. Question, do you plan on tunneling the cab in order to get the drive shaft in? By the looks of this pic, it would have to go right through the seat.
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Yes, the back of the cab will be notched for the drive shaft. There will be a MASSIVE tranns hump & tunnel in the cab. No more bench seat idea. I am thinking about molding some seat reliefs & the driveshaft tunnel into a 1 piece type unit. Almost like a cock-pit feel for each side.
 
"70_Fastback" said:
Hey Dave - my dad gave the box full of coil springs that came with the other shocks. They are all different. Some are longer, some are shorter - and all have varying coil diameters. But luckily they all have a matched mate!

I am just going to have to do the "Trial & Error" method and see which ones work best. I need to get a darn spanner wrench so I can stop using my gynormous channel locks. I am starting to 'mar' up the adjustment nut finish.
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I'll send you my spanner wrench if you have a lighter rated set of scoil springs you're willing to share with me.
 
I would be interested in swapping with you. Let me do some installs and see how the different springs compare.
 
Look through your assortment of coilovers for a spring similar to the one pictured below.

Less coils and thinner coil wire.


VARISPRINGtn.jpg
 
There is one pair that has thinner coil wires. The others are just a little smaller. I'll mic all of them and make a list.
 
J, sounds like a lot of work to change the springs by trial and error. Here's some handy info for finding the spring rate of all those different springs:

http://www.engineersedge.com/spring_tension_calc_k.htm

Here's their handy calculator (I can't seem to build one in Excel that is accurate):
http://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/tension_spring_k_pop.htm

Would be interesting to know the spring rate on the mahoosive set you currently have...looks like they would fit right in on the General Lee. :lol

Edit: Here is some very interesting info on selecting springs based on weight that might help both you and Dave S. in your searches: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/images/charts/AFCOIL.gif

Double Ninja edit: Looking at your pics and doing some SWAG math, your existing springs are at LEAST 600# units... :craz
 
Double Ninja edit: Looking at your pics and doing some SWAG math, your existing springs are at LEAST 600# units...
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My guess from the first time I saw them is that they appear to be coil springs for the frontend of a truck, which makes sense.
 
Didn't get a ton accomplished this weekend. I managed to section & bob the bed and get it mocked up on the frame. Next I'll start the interior skeleton frame work for the bed and get it mounted permanent.

Bed - pre bobbing & sectioning
26_08_08_10_7_42_56_0.JPG


skin cut off
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And for alignment purposes in putting it back together - and to create a better environment for a good weld, I made slome slugs to insert into the rails. I took sections of the rail that I cut out and slit it open and closed it in a little so it would slide down inside of the one bed half. Once in position, I tack welded them in place so they would not slide in when putting the 2 bed pieces back together.
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Bed cut with internal frame cut too. One slug is installed. The other bed half will be slid on to the slugs.
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Skip ahead....

Bed sections welded together. I took out a 24-1/2" section.
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The slugs worked great for aligning
26_08_08_10_7_44_17_1.JPG


Piece of 3/16" plate/gusset spotted on the inside. And a fully welded seam on the outside. Nice and strong too.
26_08_08_10_7_44_18_2.JPG


Notched and dropped on
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Everything fits.
26_08_08_10_7_44_18_4.JPG


You can see the squared notch out for the axle tube. That is a 1" spacer lifting it off of the axle tube. I need to borrow Dad's plasma cutter back so I can cut a 4" radius on the top of the notch for suspension travel clearance. The opening will also get reinforced with some additional internal plating when I get to make the skeleton/frame
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Just for looks - I like pictures
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Long and low
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Everything contained. You can see how high the frame sits in relation to the top of bedsides. I will have about a 4" deep "bed". If I even run a bed floor. I may just do a type of spider web from round stock to show off the suspension.
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And I'm not totally sold on the "F O R D " script on that tailgate. I believe it's a 50's something gate. It doesn't look nostalgic enough for the build.

Thoughts....?
 
The '51 Ford next to my car in my sig picture had a cool treatment on his tailgaite. In smaller letters (same stamping, smaller font) between the FORD letters he had 351. Should have snapped a picture.

Looked like this
F3 O5 R1 D
 
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