limeyboy
Active Member
No it's not the retainer plate, that is in this photo.
Some bearings come off easily and some need a bigger hammer!
Some bearings come off easily and some need a bigger hammer!
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9" pumpkin
- Thread starter limeyboy
- Start date
limeyboy
Active Member
Mine had no paper gaskets just the thin metal one between the backing plate and the axle flange
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
I think the best way is to follow that diagram/pic I uploaded. To my knowledge thats the way to go.
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limeyboy
Active Member
I will, that's the trouble with things being messed around with for 50 years you never know what you end up with sometimes.
I'm putting the diff in tonight with a friend, I got the old one out on my own but that was a struggle, so hopefully it should be easier getting it in with a friend.
I got some electrical plugs from " DEL city" 3 pin ones that fit straight into the headlight loom female perfectly for my relay conversion I'm doing when the diff is done.
I'm putting the diff in tonight with a friend, I got the old one out on my own but that was a struggle, so hopefully it should be easier getting it in with a friend.
I got some electrical plugs from " DEL city" 3 pin ones that fit straight into the headlight loom female perfectly for my relay conversion I'm doing when the diff is done.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Ok Jeff . But shoot some pics while you're at it. Will you ?
And a pic of those electrical connectors. Thx.
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And a pic of those electrical connectors. Thx.
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limeyboy
Active Member
Well last night didn't go too well, the gasket just didn't want to fit very well at all ( hole positions on one side out causing "wrinkles" in the gasket) so I've ordered one from a UK supplier hoping for a better fit, if not I shall make one for myself.
The old gasket was that thin / hard / plasticky material and didn't leak and was a far better shape than the one supplied which seems to be the common 9" diff shape offered. The old one seemed nearer a Ford part I saw a picture of ( US supplier though).
When I ordered the new SKF wheel bearings I ordered SKF axle seals as well as I don't want to do the job again.
I already had a pair of " cheap" Centric seals but thought why not pay the extra money for SKF ones.
In the pictures you can see the SKF seals are thinner ( which should put the lip on a different position on the shaft ) and look very "simple" and the cheap Centric ones are almost identical to the "Ford" ones I took out.
So my questions are -
Are Centric seals any good?
Or should I use the thinner SKF ones which "look inferior"?
The only good news is I have the new bearings and retainers pressed onto the axles
I will do pictures of the wiring plugs tomorrow Bruno.
Thanks for any opinions
The old gasket was that thin / hard / plasticky material and didn't leak and was a far better shape than the one supplied which seems to be the common 9" diff shape offered. The old one seemed nearer a Ford part I saw a picture of ( US supplier though).
When I ordered the new SKF wheel bearings I ordered SKF axle seals as well as I don't want to do the job again.
I already had a pair of " cheap" Centric seals but thought why not pay the extra money for SKF ones.
In the pictures you can see the SKF seals are thinner ( which should put the lip on a different position on the shaft ) and look very "simple" and the cheap Centric ones are almost identical to the "Ford" ones I took out.
So my questions are -
Are Centric seals any good?
Or should I use the thinner SKF ones which "look inferior"?
The only good news is I have the new bearings and retainers pressed onto the axles
I will do pictures of the wiring plugs tomorrow Bruno.
Thanks for any opinions
Lube Locker gasket is by far the best!
Mark
Mark
limeyboy
Active Member
But what about the seals?
limeyboy
Active Member
Bruno they seem to fit OK and if you are the same as me it's impossible to get US sized bullet connectors in the UK so these are really handy.
I use axle housing end seals (Timkin brand) that look like your Centric pieces and do not use a paper (or any other material) gasket on the housing flange end. Can't vouch for that brand. Could be a cheap knock-off. Don't know.
Never have a leaking issue. Just smear a thin coating of RTV on the outside rim of the seal before pressing it in to make sure there are no tiny leaks from scratches or such in the mating surface. You stop leaks there and some silly paper flange gasket becomes unnecessary.
Never have a leaking issue. Just smear a thin coating of RTV on the outside rim of the seal before pressing it in to make sure there are no tiny leaks from scratches or such in the mating surface. You stop leaks there and some silly paper flange gasket becomes unnecessary.
The DelCity.net trailer connectors fit all of the Ford connectors of the same shape. I've been using them for more than 10 years now.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Those connectors are realy fine to make a seperate wiringloom for the H4 conversion. So you don't have to cut into the orignal headlight wiring harness.
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limeyboy
Active Member
Thats, what I intend to use them for, a friend helped me put the diff in this morning, not easy on your back with the car on jack stands.
I've put both axles in and will fill with oil and additive, bleed the brakes etc on Monday.
I assume the driveshaft just pulls out of the auto box ( as the car is high on the back I guess it wont drop much fluid?) and it just slides back in after I've renewed the uj's each end?
I've put both axles in and will fill with oil and additive, bleed the brakes etc on Monday.
I assume the driveshaft just pulls out of the auto box ( as the car is high on the back I guess it wont drop much fluid?) and it just slides back in after I've renewed the uj's each end?
Yep, just slides in and out. Shouldn't have much if any fluid come out as you have the car sitting. I'd still sit a catch pan there anyway. Who wants oil spots on the floor.
When you say renew does that mean replace? I'd go that route if possible. No way to to really tell the condition of the old ones. Could be one hard pedal stomp from a break. Then again, as parts go these days, maybe I trust old and working over new and possibly pure Chinese crap. I hate where things have gone in parts quality
When you say renew does that mean replace? I'd go that route if possible. No way to to really tell the condition of the old ones. Could be one hard pedal stomp from a break. Then again, as parts go these days, maybe I trust old and working over new and possibly pure Chinese crap. I hate where things have gone in parts quality
limeyboy
Active Member
Yes I meant replace, I've got a couple of joints from Rock auto on the way, SKF ( made in China probably) as I do more and more jobs on her I realise the Hooker long tubes will make taking the auto box out a real issue if I have to but as you know the choice of headers for a Cleveland is quite limited and whatever I might get will have to match up to the 3 1/2" collector as from there back is perfect with a pair of Spin tech boxes that give a lovely sound.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Don't want to be a pain in the a$$ ( hi Terry ) but did you use those copper washers to bolt the diff?
Or what did you use ?
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Or what did you use ?
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limeyboy
Active Member
Yes I did use the washers, I was going to anneal them until I realised they are copper coated steel not pure copper!!
I had to slightly modify a Scott Drake gasket for a good fit and I put a light smear of Hylomar on each face so I don't expect any leaks with a bit of luck.
I had to slightly modify a Scott Drake gasket for a good fit and I put a light smear of Hylomar on each face so I don't expect any leaks with a bit of luck.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
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limeyboy
Active Member
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Nice ! When I did my 8 inch , i did put a magnet at the outside bottom of the case.
Just to collect some small iron bits that maybe came off the truetrac.
Can not harm.
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Just to collect some small iron bits that maybe came off the truetrac.
Can not harm.
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