Another Project - 71 Torino

[Horseplay]

I suggest doing a bit more research on the subject. Those figures are, as I wrote before, on the VERY low, conservative end. They are not anything anyone would consider real drivers set-up. The toe is good. You want just a very tiny toe in. Better too much than a chance of toe out.

As set up, it will drive and steer. It will not provide anything in the area of driving performance.

 

[JRANGER]

I suggest doing a bit more research on the subject. Those figures are, as I wrote before, on the VERY low, conservative end. They are not anything anyone would consider real drivers set-up. The toe is good. You want just a very tiny toe in. Better too much than a chance of toe out.

As set up, it will drive and steer. It will not provide anything in the area of driving performance.

Understand, Open tacker has similar specs as well...Ill see what i can find and i do appreciate all the info., Luckily the caster camber bolts make it easy to adjust especially since i have the floor plates for doing these alignments.

 

[Horseplay]

Bored sitting a desk today. Does it show? lol

Found a Torino forum and did some digging. Seems the guys there suggest something in the 3-4 degrees caster range and -.75 camber. I wasn't too far off in my suggested numbers. Being a typical Ford coil over suspension design of the day it figures the numbers would be about what we like in a Mustang. The only real difference is the Torino being bigger and fatter (heavier). Suspension motions and travel should not be that different.

Caster is the one thing you really feel when driving. It's what makes the car want to drive itself. Center the wheel. You can put A LOT into a set-up and not suffer any negative affects. One look at your gauge (range of numbers) should tell you that.

 

[JRANGER]

Ive seen that more on the 72 up models...But im still digging? Have the link?

 

[Horseplay]

Sorry. No link. I was just Googling and reading the "headlines" as it were. Just used something like "Torino tech forum" in the search bar. Don't get hung up on years. Pretty much any suspension set-up of the same design will act similar given the identical configuration.

 

[JRANGER]

Im getting fed up with this car. I keep getting it where i want it, i drop it down and it changes the spec. I just took it for a drive after getting it in spec and the drivers side is now out of whack. Either im not getting it tight enough or im doing something wrong. I had it at 3.5 degrees caster and -1.75 camber.

 

[Horseplay]

Im getting fed up with this car. I keep getting it where i want it, i drop it down and it changes the spec. I just took it for a drive after getting it in spec and the drivers side is now out of whack. Either im not getting it tight enough or im doing something wrong. I had it at 3.5 degrees caster and -1.75 camber.

Drop it down? Alignment needs to be done with the vehicle sitting on its own tires with the full weight on the ground. How are you doing it?

After I get the car squared up and level (you may need to use large tiles or such under a wheel or two) I place a couple sheets of plastic under each front wheel. You can use large garbage bags for this too). This allows the tires to move against the floor surface more easily and not cause bad readings. I put masking tape down on the floor as well to make my reference marks to measure the caster arc, etc.

 

[Horseplay]

Here's a vid I found quick to give you a visual of what you need to be doing.

I use a Fastrax tool. It's really easy to use. With it and some plastic and string and you can do a good job on caster and camber set-up.

 

[JRANGER]

Drop it down? Alignment needs to be done with the vehicle sitting on its own tires with the full weight on the ground. How are you doing it?

After I get the car squared up and level (you may need to use large tiles or such under a wheel or two) I place a couple sheets of plastic under each front wheel. You can use large garbage bags for this too). This allows the tires to move against the floor surface more easily and not cause bad readings. I put masking tape down on the floor as well to make my reference marks to measure the caster arc, etc.

im using alignment plates and sitting the whole car weight down on them.

 

[Horseplay]

Did you take the time to make sure that the surface of all four plates are level to one another? If you are adjusting, tightening and measuring everything correctly that's the only thing I can see that could be causing your set-up to "change".

 

[JRANGER]

yeah im thinking something is off. I got it to where its drivable agian, so i think now ill find a shop here locally that can dial it in like i want. Im spent for the night lol

 

[JRANGER]

Took it to the shop and got it all aligned. Took 2+ Hours but they did it

Toe: .30 and .32
Camber -.19 and -.24
Caster 3.45 and 3.49

Holds the road nice and straight

 

[JRANGER]

So 29 days til the power tour......
Car is driving good but leaking everywhere. I was going to change out the c4 pan, but then found out the pan i bought wont work as its a Pan Fill c4. Whoops...Then i figured out all the pan botls were loose, so i torque spec'ed them all to 12 ft lbs in hopes that will stop some leaking.

Even though im not having any over heating problems, im a bit skeptical of the stock radiator and figured a fresh Aluminum would help regardless. So i ordered a cheap replacement rad, that should help atleast a little.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086BXTGHJ

I also noticed my Sway bar end links were properly alligned so loosened them back up, adjsuted and re-tightened them down. Damn poly bushings... lol

I ordered everything to do another oil change, its not even remotely due, but with a car sitting as long as this car i like to try to break things loose and freshen up the oil to check for contaminents etc..

I also ordered a new set of autolite 24s to throw in, as its been a good year since i replaced them. So ill do that as well.

Tons of stuff to do, before the power tour.... Leaks everywhere but she runs and drives good.

 

[Horseplay]

Not reviewing all you have done just going to rattle off all the stuff I would make sure was done before undertaking such a journey.

Complete cooling system check-up. New thermostat and all hoses. New belt. At minimum flush and pressure test radiator (or go new). Install a new water pump. They are cheap and you'll know its good for the trip. If using an OEM clutch fan be sure to check it too. If electric and age unknown, I'd put a new one on. Carry a spare relay and terminals too. High draw stuff can wreak havoc on loose connections, etc. Be prepared.

Ignition system. If old school, replace points, condenser, cap and rotor. New plugs and wires. Coils are fairly cheap, bring a back-up. If something modern, like a Pertronix dizzy, carry an spare module. Inspect the coil and dizzy wiring and repair anything questionable. Install new and carry back-up apron starter solenoid.

Charging system. New alternator (or carry a spare). New belt. Check wiring and repair as needed.

Fuel system. New mech pump if so equipped. I always carry a back-up electric pump. New under hood fuel hoses. New filter. Carry a spare filter or two as well. New air filter. Carb? If you don't rebuild beforehand it carry a kit to do so.

Brakes. Inspect, clean and replace parts as needed. Inspect all old hard and soft brake lines for damage and wear. Replace/repair as needed. Top off fluid.

Chassis. New front wheel bearings (or at least take them out and repack with grease). Inspect and grease/replace u-joints. Service diff or at minimum verify gear lube level. Inspect and verify torque on EVERYTHING.

What I pack and take along on long trips.

Tool kit. I have the bare minimum but enough to handle just about anything. Wrenches, Crescent wrench, screwdrivers, a few select sockets to replace possible parts like an alternator, etc. Any specialty tool I know something on my car requires (Allen wrenches, for example) Tire pressure gauge. Wiring tools like cutters, crimper/stripper, electrical tape and some wire and terminals. Tube of RTV. Flashlight.

Spare Parts. I carry the following; in-tank electric fuel pump and sock (gasket), belts, relays, starter solenoid, ignition switch, headlight switch, fuses, gasket material, a spark plug and a couple long plug wires. Various lengths of a few gauges of wire. Electrical tape and zip ties.

 

[JRANGER]

Complete cooling system check-up. New Thermostat and housing has been installed. New Rad on the way and have new hoses to go with it

Ignition system. Wires, Cap, Plugs (Year Old), and replaced. I have spare coils to bring and will bring extra points

Charging system. 1 wire alt upgraded and old one in trunk. New Belts on, with old one in trunk

Fuel system. 100% new fuel lines, new pump, and

Brakes. Replaced rear brakes, replace intermediate brake line, bled whole system and got nasty fluid out. Front Discs were in good order

Chassis. Whole suspensions new and lubed up

What I pack and take along on long trips.

Tool kit. I have a huge trunk and will be packing TONS. We are going with a group as well and will be prepared

Spare Parts. Agreed with it all


Thanks for all the info. This is year 2 so im almost ready to rock n roll. The air shocks are there for a reason so i can load it up and not struggle lol

 

[JRANGER]

Well figured out my Mufflers were shot, so i removed them. Never Heard of these Tiger Andretti Mufflers before but i know they are OLD!!! I have Thrush Welded Mufflers on the way that ill push into place for the time being as shops were too costly at the moment. This exhaust wasnted welded so a couple cuts and i pulled the existing pipes out

Also Swapped the mirror on the passenger door since the one was shot to shit, and put a new fuel filter on

 

[JRANGER]

 

[JRANGER]

 

[JRANGER]

 

[JRANGER]

The weekend project showed Up