Chasers 66 408 Restomod / ProTouring Coupe

[chaser012001]

Oh man I'm getting way behind in my posts!

I received the shipment from SoT a few weeks back. It was a delivery of 6 boxes of joy...that was blocking my wifes side of the garage so I had to quickly get things move before she got home, i digress.

Opening these things was like getting a late Christmas! I opted to go with the frame mount watts link, full floating housing, 31 spline axles, and 11.75" disc brakes. For those that dont know, there are two different mounting types for the watts link; leaf mount and frame mount. Shaun explained that the leaf mount is perfectly fine for folks who dont ever intend to put mini-tubs in but will interfere with the tire if you do. The frame mount, while a little more difficult to install since welding is involved, moves the trailing arms more inward thus, mediating the potential clearance issues. I dont know if I'll ever put tubs in the car but wanted the option...and i dont have issues welding. Thats why I went with the frame mount.

TOYS:

The provided instructions are pretty good and easy to understand...and everything would have gone great save for a couple minor issues. The first being that, over the years I had replaced the rear portions of the frame rail. As luck would have it, the welded joints were right over where the watts link frame was going to mount and it wouldnt slide over. No worries, I ground the welds down a little and we were in business! NOTE: back in the day when I replaced those rails, I fish-plated the inside as well to add reinforcement.
The other, more annoying issue, was that I replaced the drivers torque box with a convertible box which then kinda messed up the measuring points as I found AFTER i had tacked everything in. Which leads me to words of wisdom: tack and test fit your parts BEFORE final welding kids...

There I was, admiring my handywork when I noticed the rear was slightly more aft on the drivers side than the passenger. A couple quick measurements confirmed that they were off almost an inch from eachother...not good.
This is where I stopped and started trying to understand what had happened. It also ended with another call to Shaun to get his opinion on what would be the best approach which was inline with what I had though...i also wanted to order the center section :-D

Next post as this gets kind of lengthy...

 

[chaser012001]

What you do NOT want to do when you realize the rear is katty wompus is to mess with the trailing arms. You might think that is a reasonable fix but, if you start thinking of how the behavior of the rear in up and down motion is impacted you'll understand that the arc of the rear will be different. What that means is, if you're under power in corners, the rear of the car will be unpredictable. It'll push harder one direction and not the other. The instructions also say to not adjust one arm and not the other so...trust the instructions.

The only way forward was to go through a full measurement exercise to:
A) prove the car was straight
B) prove the torque box repair was straight
C) find a suitable measurement point for the trailing arms
D) set the rear end forward / aft location

I took a plum bob and measured to the floor numerous points on the chassis. I made a mark on the floor in permanent marker and noted what those locations were. I marked:
* strut mounts
* lower control arm bolts
* front frame rail pins
* leaf mounts (on the frame rail)
* rear leaf mounts
* rear pin locations

I then measured (about 5x each) the distance to ALL the locations. I measured in a box pattern and then in an X. In doing so I determined that A) my car is boringly square and B) the rear of the front frame rails would serve a good point to measure from.

I measured off the passenger side mount since it was in a good location. I then matched those same measurements for the drivers side and tacked in place. From there, i measured about 30 more times and confirmed the X measurements to the frame rails. Everything was in line.
I then mounted the rear in place and measured from the lower track bar mounts as well as from the coilover mounts. In a box and in an X. Everything was square and I all was right in the world.
I then set to welding. I perimeter welded the edge of the reinforcement plate and the edges of the mounting brackets (in accordance with the instructions). Because i'm paranoid, I also drilled a hole in the center of the mounts and added a rosette weld.

After that, the rear went back into place. i still need to center it, set ride hight, and set the pinion angle. Although I think I'm going to relax on that until the center gets here. Then I'll torque everything down and call it good!

Then it was on to installing the underdash portion of the climate control....what a pain in the a$$ that was. First, they call for silicone on the fresh air vent covers. This was ok on the passenger side as there is plenty of room to work. The drivers side was a MESS! I already had the wiring in and where I wanted it...which interfered with getting the cover in place. I had to take the fuse panel and a lot of wiring out in order to get the cover on. To make matters worse, I didnt realize this until AFTER I had applied silicone. My hands are still black with that stuff...
The underdash unit is also a two person job...that I managed to do myself but hindsight being what it is, I wish I had asked for help. Drilling the holes necessary is cake but getting the bolts through, while also having to put the nuts on in the engine bay is a nightmare on your own. I somehow managed to do it though...with some crafty use of 2x4's to prop the box in place.
I might have to drop it back out though. It looks like I got the grommets on the firewall in the wrong orientation. The instructions werent very clear in this regard. Oh well, it's a fairly easy fix.

Unit pre install:

I'm planning on getting that sorted out, mounting / grouping the underdash wires, installing the oil temp gauge (coming Thursday), wiring the steering column, and (maybe) putting the carpet in during the week provided I can get out of work at decent times.
I would really like to build the center console this weekend...

 

[Horseplay]

So much cool stuff! I do miss the days of buying so many new parts. Except for that part of handing over the money that is.

You're getting close now. I forgot what part of the country you are in. Pace yourself. Don't want to get it ready to run and have to leave it sitting in the garage until winter passes. Sucks so hard to see your car sitting there and you can't enjoy it.

 

[chaser012001]

Yeah my wallet is taking a beating but I'd rather spend the money now and do it the way I want than to do it all over again...although there are a couple things I'm already eye balling about a potential redo.
I'm in the St Louis area which is frigid right now. My current estimations put first fire up and shake down sometime mid to late March. Hopefully the weather should start warming and rain should clear the roads around then.

 

[Dne']

Wow, you got some awesome "toys"!! It's also nice to work with squeaky clean brand new things!

 

[chaser012001]

It's been a pretty busy couple weeks. I received the center section last week and subsequently got it put in. I went with a 3.70 trutrac from Strange...again using SoT as the liaison. Man, I greatly underestimated how friggin heavy these things are. I think it weighed in at 90lbs. Putting it in with the rear under the car, by myself, was an adventure. I learned many new curse words in the process. The next day also reminded me that I'm not "young" anymore...even though i'm just 35 my body was super angry.
I used a lube locker gasket, heaved the sucker on the studs, tapped it down with a wood block and mallet, copper washers, followed by locking nuts torqued to 35ft lbs.

The floating axles were super easy to install. The instructions call out a 1/16" gap between the hub plate and the axle. If that gap isnt there you have to use a locking nut on the end to create it. I did not have this problem. Everything measured out perfect so the rear end is mostly complete now.

I also caught summit on one of their "11% sales"...so i took the plunge and ordered the rear rims and tires. I measured the crap out of the wheel houses, hubs, and other surfaces cause I really want to run 275's with 9.5" rims. All of my math indicated this is doable in lieu of the clearancing work I did...oh...a year and a half ago. Quick recap on the clearance work: I cut the front of the house, mashed it flat with the frame rail, and added about a 2" or so strip of metal to seal it back up. Maybe at some point I'll add mini-tubs but for now, this should be all i need.
Anywho...this is what greeted me yesterday...

SportComp II :: 275x40x17
TTII :: 9.5" w/ 6.375 backspacing

I estimated that I was going to need 5.75" backspacing to make this work so I also picked up 5/8" spacers. It was late before I could start playing with stuff and I neglected to get pictures but, it would appear as though my estimations are a little off. The rim lip looks to be just inside of the wheel arch and there is AMPLE room behind it still. So I think I really need 6" of backspacing. Spacers are pretty cheap so I figured I'd order .375" spacers and give it a whirl.
I held the tires up in the house as well...given that they have no air they are a little bulgy, the fit was snug. I think once they get mounted they should come in a little more. It's going to be tight but i think i'm going to be ok. Guessing about 1/4" or so of clearance once i get it all set up.

Sitting behind the car and looking at this madness, all i could do was laugh because these tires / rims look ridiculous! I LOVE IT!!

Tires are getting mounted / balanced next week. Should be...exciting.

In the meantime...i'm working on brake lines...

 

[chaser012001]

GAH in all the excitement of the tires I forgot to include that I put the carpet and sets in for reals.

Also, I wanted those gaudy light up kick plates that Scott Drake makes. However, I totally biffed on the fact that my car is essentially a convertible on the underside...which they dont make those kickplates for. Nothing a little time, ingenuity, and a long a$$ board cant fix...

The plates are designed to drop down along the rocker edge on the hard tops. Since i have the convertible substructure, that's not going to work. Some bending was in order...

Before:

Bending

I slowly worked the edges over so that it would fit over the rocker lip and would mount on top of the inner rocker. Worked like a champ! When it was all said and done...

I'll need to polish some scuffs out but all in all, pretty pleased. On to the next project....

 

[Horseplay]

I used the same but with a red led. Not a fan of the light up portion but shose them as they are a very stiff SS and a more appealing design, I thought. Reminds me I was supposed to come back and modify the illuminated portion to get rid of the ugly horse head design. Have to put that on the punch list to get done before it comes out of hibernation.

 

[Dne']

OMG, I Love those sills! ( think I'll run the wiring just in case I do that! didn't know those existed) What, we don't get to see the wheels!! lol With the beautiful new diff, you should start buttoning up the rear end eh? Your interior/instruments looks like an Fighter jet cockpit! Awesome!!

 

[chaser012001]

@Dne' Patience :-D
If i get some time in the shop tonight I'll get some pictures of the wheels. Thank you for the kind words!

 

[chaser012001]

Didn't really want to dork with bending brake lines so I played with wheels last night. First, gratuitous pictures of a tire shoved up in the wheel house :-D (please disregard the state of disarray my shop is in...i'll clean it some day)

I also think I realized what I did wrong in my backspace measurements. I ALWAYS forget that, when measuring backspacing and offset, to account for the lip extension off the front and rear of the rims. I'll need to measure again but, i 'think' on the American Racing rims, the lip is about 1/2". So, when I made my estimation of 5 3/4" backspacing, that was not taking in to account the front lip. So, in reality, if I used my existing measurements, the backspacing would be more like 6 1/4" which is evident when I remove the spacer and seat the rim flush. It still clears the wheel house but, once the tire is mounted, would need to be bumped out by about a 1/4 - 3/8inches or so.
Instead of 'poking and hoping' like what I feel like i'm currently doing, I'm going to wait until the tires are mounted (Tuesday) so I can see how stuff is going to sit for real.

With 5/8" wheel spacer (ergo, 5 3/4" backspacing)

Fair amount of room on the inside. The angle sucks but there is 1" of clearance between the wheel lip and the house. The axle bump clearance will need to be addressed. Notice the mashed flat fender lips. This whole endeavor would not be possible if they had been left alone.

Rim sans spacer. This is much too far back and some spacing will be required but it clears on the wheel house side. The rims are 6.375 (6 3/8) backspacing

Btw...this rim is HUGE

Anywho...tabling this for now...back to brake lines which are the bane of my existence...I'm hoping to wrap up brake lines, bleeding brakes, bleeding clutch master, and tweaking the exhaust fit a little this weekend. I also need to stop putting off building the console...working with wood is not my forte...maybe my wife can help as she's a real good wood worker (her hobby)

 

[stangg]

Something to note on the inner wheel house clearance is the lower forward portion. It curves inward to make room for the lower rear seat cushion. If everything is all stock, that's where you might run into some interference. Above the axle isn't a good spot to check.

 

[steveh326]

I love watching your progress... really really nice.

 

[chaser012001]

@stangg I've already clearanced the front lower of the wheel house. Added about an inch to inch and a half inboard clearance. Things look pretty good up there at this point.

@steveh326 Thanks! Should start getting real exciting soon!

 

[Horseplay]

What size tire are you trying to run out back? There simply isn't a lot of room in the stock space even when working that front inside area back. Without mini-tubbing 245 is about all you can get to work without some degree of rubbing somewhere in actual use. I spent a ton of time playing with it. Using Shawn's rear set-up might help a bit as you probably won't see as much lateral shifting as with a regular leaf spring suspension but it's real tight.

 

[chaser012001]

275. I had 255's on the 14" rims and had a fair amount of room to start. I've worked the wheelhouses pretty well so far. We'll just have to see. I've measured up potential contact areas and have 11 1/4 on the narrowest spots. Section width on the tires is 10 7/8. Tight but manageable.

 

[chaser012001]

Also, what I plan to do when i get the tires is set them on (no lug nuts), remove the springs from the coilovers, and raise the rear up to determine where the ideal set point needs to be. From there, i'll figure out if i need a spacer and what width / if i need to start beating again.

With the current setup, I had tons of space with 245's (which i have on the front). I used those to figure out potential ride height.
Which is why I felt ok to take the plunge on the 275's.

 

[Horseplay]

If you pull off the 275's you'll be the first! Dodgestang (Nick) put together a huge listing of wheel/tire combo's and he himself has a 65 he tried to max out. I think the best he did was a 255 but with rubbing from time to time. Remember not all tires are created equal either. One 245/60r15 doesn't measure out as another most times. Wheel diameters can also get you trouble. A tall tire could rub where a shorter might clear, etc. Anxious to see how you do. More tread is always best!

 

[chaser012001]

Not much time spent in the shop. Actually spent most of the time in my wifes shop...which is WAY cleaner than mine but i digress. I worked on some 'prototyping' for the center console today. The plan is to stitch together what I want the console to look like since it's easier to deal with in sections. Once I'm happy with the design, I'm going to build it for reals.

I've started with the under dash section. I plan to run a double din radio with some switches underneath. Here's what I did:

The whole thing is built out of 1/2" MDF since i had a bunch laying around after building the subwoofer box. First glaring issue is that the 1/2" is WAY too thick for the front section. The switches wont protrude and I'm sure i'll have a dickens of a time getting the radio mounted. So, when i do this for real, I'll use probably 1/4" ply for that front section. Likely route a groove to slide it down into.

 

[Boom]

Lots of great work there. I remember lifting one of those center chunks up into place, I dread having to do it again for the fastback. The truetrac is super nice on the street.