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Custom Center Console Part 3

Here you can start to see the mirror finish out in the sun.... :yikes way to bright for me.

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Somewhat together, though it still needs some fine tunning.

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Like some trimming on the top.

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Any metal gurus out there? Since the pics are posted now, Heres the issue. Im using aluminum 6061 which i've learned is more for a structural application. Its good for welding, manufacturing etc.. When it comes to bending, not so much. You can see in this pic, the vertical lines outline the different sections. My plan was to do a radius bend at those locations.

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Sorry i dont have pics of my effort, but i sandwiched the piece down between longer pieces of 3/4 plywood. The top pieces of wood were beveled. My thought was that i would bend it up until the bevels touched, giving me nearly 30 degrees or rise. I need 27 so i was allowing 3 for spring back. I used a map gas torch to heat the piece at the bend, being carefull not to over heat, as i didn't want to melt the material, or torch the plywood. I tried bending it first without heat, and i didnt have the leverage to move it. This is some strong stuff. When i started bending, it flexed a bit, and then the material just snapped. almost a clean line, very straight, just a little jagged. :wtf This 1/8 6061 and it just broke into two. So the pics you see, are cut and beveled aluminum. Its actually 3 pieces, and i think i want to re do it. I already have a bunch of hours into this aluminum, and just the filing time to get it to fit perfect was ridiculous. Any thoughts or input would be appreciated.
 
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:toot Looking good. This is something I'm planning on for my restomod coupe but I think I'll need and upholster for the vinyl work.
 
Jake,

You'd have much better luck bending AL that wasn't as thick. .125" is awfully thick to get a clean bend.... even with heat and a machinists brake.

Have you considered using something other than AL? Some stainless "flashing" might work a lot better....
 
The 6061 T6 alloy is Solution heat treated and artificially aged and is the "strongest" of the 6000 series. 6000 series is a good general purpose alloy and is alloyed with magnesium and silicon, are easy to machine, and can be precipitation-hardened, and tends to be a bit more ductile (for instance, it would be more apt to wilt or buckle than to snap than 7000 series which is the strongest aluminum alloy) if it were not heat treated. T1 would be cooled from hot rolling and naturally aged at room temp. O temper is annealed (softened). Hot rolling means it is rolled at a high enough temperature were the "grains" recrystalize. In cold work the grains are elongated (like wood grain for example) and the elongated grain gives it strength. You have bent a spoon or other metal object before back and forth until it breaks. That is cold work. You don't weaken the metal, you make it more brittle until it won't bend anymore. Then it fails or breaks. Precipitation hardening is hard to explain. Basically when the metal is heated at to a temp and cooled at a rate that allows impurities to form in the crystal lattace, the dislocation of the grains becomes more difficult, creating the strength. i.e. T6 is more brittle than T1 or O temper. O temper has a tensile strength no more than 18,000 psi. T6 is at least 42,000 psi. Much less "form-able".
Make sense? This is what I do for a living! I could go all day!
 
so what would be the appropriate material to bend then? If im understanding this correctly, 1/8" 2024-T351 Aluminum Plate would be more easily bent then the 6061 because of the lower tensile strength?
 
Dave, the problem i have found with the "flashing" material, is because the gauge is so thin, its easy to deform the edges during cutting. I need the heavier material so the sides can be shaped perfectly with my set of somewhat basic hand tools. Although the thiner stuff is easier to cut with snips or shears, its nearly impossible to stay consistent enough to get the perfect look. At least for me anyway.
 
"lethal289" said:
so what would be the appropriate material to bend then? If im understanding this correctly, 1/8" 2024-T351 Aluminum Plate would be more easily bent then the 6061 because of the lower tensile strength?
Click to expand...
NO, NO! 2024 T351 is not a good choice. I should explain some more. The heat treating is more of a factor than the alloy in your case. You need an O temper. The 6000 series is great for what you are doing, just not T6. 2024 T351 is a structral alloy for aircraft and very strong also. T351 temper 2024 plate has an ultimate tensile strength of 68 ksi (470 MPa) and yield strength of 41 kpsi (280 MPa). It has elongation of 19%. 19% is good for formabilty but it's still too strong for what your doing. 6061 T6 has elongation of 8% to 10% but 6061 O temper is 25% or more. Even 2024 O temper doesnt have as good elongation as 6061 O temper.
 
I think i get it. I was thinking the lower the alloy, the more pliable it would be, when in fact its the temper rating that makes the material more form able. Correct? Thanks Craig. I cant buy this material locally, or at least i haven't found it yet. Any suggestions on a good place?
 
sort of, the 4 digit alloy designation by the aluminum association is basically for the major alloying element in the first number, modification or impurity level in the second number and the % of aluminum in the 3rd and 4th numbers. The trailing numbers are the heat treatment process and yes that is key to each alloy. Some alloys react different to heat treatment than others and the rolling process combined with the alloy elements effect things like corrosion resistance as well. To some degree your thought process is right, higher series can be stronger but that's not the whole story.
Anyway, 6000 series is typically used in automotive applications like what your doing, you just don't need the heat treatment cuz your not building a structural component.

We sell in billions of pounds so I don't know about places to get small quantity's, maybe Granger?
 
well they don't list the temper. 3003 is a "strain hardened" alloy and could be cold worked and heat treated to a pretty high strength.
Strain hardened (cold worked) with or without thermal treatment
-H1
Strain hardened without thermal treatment
-H2
Strain hardened and partially annealed
-H3
Strain hardened and stabilized by low temperature heating
Second digit
A second digit denotes the degree of hardness
-HX2 = 1/4 hard
-HX4 = 1/2 hard
-HX6 = 3/4 hard
-HX8 = full hard
-HX9 = extra hard
so for example if it's 3003 H19, it will be much more brittle than 3003 O temper or F (as fabricated)...
 
thats thicker, like 3/16ths, and because of the temper "O", it would bend easier then 1/8th t-6? I assume heat will make the aluminum bend easier... Right?
 
"lethal289" said:
thats thicker, like 3/16ths, and because of the temper "O", it would bend easier then 1/8th t-6? I assume heat will make the aluminum bend easier... Right?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I know it's thicker but I couldn't find any O temper thinner. It would be much easier to bend than T6. Heat will be like an anneal on something that is strain hardened or heat treated, so yes it would be easier but you will have uneven softening and discoloration. It wouldn't do much for an O Temper cuz it's already as soft as it will get. For what your doing you really need to start with "softer" stuff.
Dave,
Brushed aluminum would be great, it probably is not heat treated and much thinner.
 
I can aquire some "scrap" clear coated aluminum (5182) used for bear can lids. It's about .010" thick but very formable. The coating will prevent any corrosion if it gets wet but you won't be able to polish it. It will have a "brushed" look. I don't know how much I can get but my buddy visits one of our venders who slit coils to customer widths and they always have scrap laying around. Let me know how it goes with Mort.
 
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