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Kats Project

So remember how I was going to have some stuff powder coated in exchange for me doing a website? Well that didn't happen. Even though the guy had my parts since uh, March? April? whenever it was I pulled the engine & tranny out.... he hadn't done anything yet. So I asked him yesterday if he was going to be able to get it done or not within a few weeks.. he said no (his PC gun is broke or something). So I picked up all my parts last night. They aren't pretty PCd, but I can atleast put the engine back together and back in Gertrude!

Oh and I also gave him 4 late model mustang wheels for doing the PCing, but since no PCing was done, I got the wheels back.

wheel1d.jpg
wheel2ul.jpg


I was hoping they would fit on Gertrude but they don't. They are 17x8's. Too wide. They clear the caliper, but hit the UCA and tie rod. Darnit. Was hoping they would fit so I could put Gert on the ground and take her off the stands. I could have used those as a temporary thing until I could get different ones that looked better. Oh well. Atleast I have parts back which means I can start putting them back on and hopefully this weekend have some folks help put the engine & tranny back in and with lots of luck, hear her run again. :beer
 
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I was reading somewhere that 17x8s won't work in the front.. something about having to roll the fender lip and stuff to make them fit? :shrug
 
You probably want to roll your fender lips anyway, before paint, ~ you'll be glad you did. ; )
 
The rear has no lips. PO cut them off. Left nice sharp edge too. :rant I plan on rolling the front eventually, like you said before paint which is going to be a while for me to save up for it. She's going to be rocking primer for a while. lol

I was able to try on a 15x8 and 15x7 magnums the other day. No tires... just the wheel. The 15x8 was really close to the UCA. About 1/4 inch to touching it. The 15x7 there was about 1/2 in of room between the lip and the UCA. I can't remember the 15x8, but I know the 15x7 there was decent amount of space between the wheel and the tie rod.

I had someone tell me 15x7 in the front and 15x10 in the rear would look 'bad ass' on Gertie. LOL

I need to call my mustang connection and see if he has any wheels laying around I can borrow for a bit just so I can get Gert off the jack stands so I can put her motor back in. I'm so close to hearing her start up again! :yah
 
You'll never come close to a 10" out back without mini-tubbing it. 7" in front 8" in back is what you can expect to get to fit without issues. Most run something like a 215/225 in front and a 235/245 out back. Depends on the tire.
 
Just make sure you get the backspacing correct too! I messed up on my cragars, they were 3.25's, really needed 4.50's! I'm not very good at tires n wheels! but I'm good at making mistakes buying them! :roll
naynay (what my little super grandaughter calls me!)
dne'
 
"Dne'" said:
Just make sure you get the backspacing correct too! I messed up on my cragars, they were 3.25's, really needed 4.50's! I'm not very good at tires n wheels! but I'm good at making mistakes buying them! :roll
naynay (what my little super grandaughter calls me!)
dne'
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4.50, is that for the front or rear? or both?
 
I might have found some temporary wheels. :thu I called my mustang contact (the one who I'm buying the brakes and other parts from).. he and his dad have a huge barn filled with mustang/fairlane parts. Anyway they have a few kinds of wheels available. Some are just rollers that are ugly, but that's fine. I don't need permanent new wheels right now. I just need two temporary ones to get Gert off jack stands so I can get the engine/tranny back in.


Speaking of which... think this would fit my '90 302 w/front sump pan? :confu
http://www.cjponyparts.com/oil-dipstick ... 78/p/DSK4/
 
"Fast68back" said:
I have the ford racing one from summit, couple bucks cheaper

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-302-400/?rtype=10
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If you're watching every dollar, CJ's would be cheaper with their free shipping. Just make sure they have it in stock (their website is usually very good at accuracy) otherwise you might be waiting weeks for the part. Their prices are usually a couple bucks more on most items but the freight savings wins. Catch 'em on a 15% off sale and you save nicely. End of commercial. Man I should get paid for this stuff...
 
Ok trying to think of everything absolutely need to get the engine back in... making a parts list and getting part numbers from O'reillys so I can call them today to order any part not in stock that I will need. Luckily, all the gaskets are in stock. :thu
Gaskets for:
  • Water Pump
  • Intake
  • Valve Covers
  • Headers
Other stuff:
  • Oil
  • Trans Fluid
  • Brake Fluid
  • Coolant for Radiator
  • 3/8" Freeze Plug to plug old oil dipstick hole - ordered it from Napa, ready for pickup today

I think I might need a hose. I remember I couldn't get this hose off and it was still attached to the water pump when I gave all my parts to the PC guy and told him he can try to get them off. It's this hose, green circle...I'm at work so I can't go through all my pictures on my computer to see wtf that connected to or go look in the garage. Is that one hose does it looks like might be 2 hoses there?
Edit: Nevermind I figured it out. Goes from water pump to engine block I think.

hosep.jpg
 
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just think how nice it's going to look when you're done~ I've kind of figured and found out~ YOU'RE NEVER DONE! lol But at least when you start bolting things back in and on~ all new stuff, hands don't get hardly dirty at all! :yah
And one more thing, you can buy a stang all fixed up and ready to roll, but the appreciation lies in, you KNOW every nut and bolt, every rust hole(that was there), so you're kind of bonded to your stang; it's a part of you! :wor
 
I think I might need a hose. I remember I couldn't get this hose off and it was still attached to the water pump when I gave all my parts to the PC guy and told him he can try to get them off. It's this hose, green circle...I'm at work so I can't go through all my pictures on my computer to see wtf that connected to or go look in the garage. Is that one hose does it looks like might be 2 hoses there?
Edit: Nevermind I figured it out. Goes from water pump to engine block I think.

hosep.jpg

[/quote]

The first one is the bypass hose. I would not reuse the old one. The next one is the heater hose I would replace both.
 
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After looking at my old water pump, I've decided to just go ahead and buy a new one. Only $20 for a new one.

Looks like the one port was just sealed off and wasn't used for anything. :shrug You can see the black hose. Seems I cut it off when I removed it. I'm replacing any hoses so wasn't worried about saving it.

WaterPump.jpg
 
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