Aren't you done with this project yet? It should be painted by now and interior going back in...
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Kats Project
- Thread starter Kats66Pny
- Start date
AzPete
Well-Known Member
"Kats66Pny" said:
I know....had to give you a hard time....lol
Do I get to choose where I can nibble?"Kats66Pny" said:
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
Looks good! Make sure that you let me know when you are ready for the black dash pad.
Mel
Mel
Fun Saturday! :hide Started taking apart the front. Had my husband help and we removed the windshield. Surprisingly the window came out in one piece even though it had some major cracks. Did find some ugly rust around the window area.
Lower LH side rust holes.
Top RH side rust holes.
Lower LH side rust holes.
Top RH side rust holes.
Last edited by a moderator:
mustangstofear
Active Member
You have 2 really nice water leaks. Rich.
I have way more than 2! lol Besides those holes, the windshield had lots of cracks.
The one on the lower LH side I'm not worried about because it looks to be part of the cowl assembly which I'm going to be replacing with a new one. Its the one on the top RH side that is going to be a pain to fix.
The one on the lower LH side I'm not worried about because it looks to be part of the cowl assembly which I'm going to be replacing with a new one. Its the one on the top RH side that is going to be a pain to fix.
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Kate ,
When you're planning to remove the cowl , do mark the position of the cowl very accurately because later on , it determens how he front fenders/hood/ doors aligns.Trust me !!
Just drill two little holes ( left and right ) in the lower windshield opening lip .Later on you can put a dowel into these holes to align the cowl when putting it back together.
When you want to put a new cowl on it , mark the outer visible edge of the old cowl before removing and take thispoint to install you new one.
Hope you understand that louzy english from me.
When you're planning to remove the cowl , do mark the position of the cowl very accurately because later on , it determens how he front fenders/hood/ doors aligns.Trust me !!
Just drill two little holes ( left and right ) in the lower windshield opening lip .Later on you can put a dowel into these holes to align the cowl when putting it back together.
When you want to put a new cowl on it , mark the outer visible edge of the old cowl before removing and take thispoint to install you new one.
Hope you understand that louzy english from me.
mustangstofear
Active Member
I know they make the one piece cowl for the 67-68 but I will check and see if they do for the 65-66. If they do that is the best way to do the repair, it will cut your welding time in half. I would bet the bottom half is rusted. Rich.
:shrug LOL I think I understand, but I learn best by visual explaination... pictures.
Yes, they make the whole cowl assembly for '66 which is what I'm trying to save up for. The bottom cowl is severely rusted out. I can look under the dash and see nothing but rust and holes. You can actually pull pieces of rusted metal off.
The top piece has some rust holes as well. I was taking a BFH and a flat head screwdriver yesterday and chipping away lots of bondo that is on the cowl. Yuck!
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Kate !! take your measurements !!! or its gonna backfire when aligning hood/doors/fenders :char
The current crappy cowl is misaligned and the entire thing is covered in bondo, some places 1/4" -1/2" thick on the cowl.
If I did any measuring, I doubt it would do any good especially since the more I start looking and taking everything off, the more rust and stuff I'm finding which means more repro parts that I'll probably have to buy. :shrug
If I did any measuring, I doubt it would do any good especially since the more I start looking and taking everything off, the more rust and stuff I'm finding which means more repro parts that I'll probably have to buy. :shrug
AzPete
Well-Known Member
The basic cowl has to be close and with no measurements, plus more repro parts, the task will become more and more difficult.
The more repo parts you use, the more trial fit required before final welding also.
No repo part is expected to fit perfect.....measurements are critical.......but then, we will be around to guide you.
The more repo parts you use, the more trial fit required before final welding also.
No repo part is expected to fit perfect.....measurements are critical.......but then, we will be around to guide you.
What exactly is there to measure before I take out this rusted cowl?
I'm replacing the whole thing with this
I figure when get the whole cowl, it's going to need to be fitted and tweaked to fit...so will the repro fenders I'm getting.
This piece on the RH side needs replaced too. The cowl side panel.
I'm replacing the whole thing with this
I figure when get the whole cowl, it's going to need to be fitted and tweaked to fit...so will the repro fenders I'm getting.
This piece on the RH side needs replaced too. The cowl side panel.
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
Nice work and nice replacement pieces, but you need a starting point. Measure what you have just to be sure!
You will at least have a starting place.
Mel
You will at least have a starting place.
Mel
B67FSTB
The NorCal dude from Belgium
Before you weld the complete cowl. secure it with some clamps and put on the fenders and hood.
Secure all those parts so you can see how the parts align to each other.
At this stage you can shift the cowl so the space between the cowl and fenders are equal.
( the fenders should be aligned with the doors before you shift the cowl to its place.)
my 0.02 oinion.
Secure all those parts so you can see how the parts align to each other.
At this stage you can shift the cowl so the space between the cowl and fenders are equal.
( the fenders should be aligned with the doors before you shift the cowl to its place.)
my 0.02 oinion.
I would use self tapping sheet metal screws... take up less room during "test" assemblies and the holes can be welded closed
Didn't go that route when I put my cowl back together tho. Must have gotten lucky 'cause my fenders and hood line up great! But... I also had some really good original pieces that I was able to salvage off another car, so maybe the alignment problems are related to repoops?
I did use sheet metal screws when I did the floors and trunk/shackle mount repair.