Mach1Mark's '65 coupe restomod

[Mach1Mark]

You are planning to use a shroud, right? Without one those fans will give a worse result than before as they physically cover less surface area of the radiator. A properly designed shroud will let them draw air across the full surface. Make sure when you are playing with your mock-up you are allowing for the thickness of the shroud as it stands off the rad.

I know you've likely accounted for all this stuff but thought it might serve to help others reading along that might not think of these points.

Rest assured Ive spent an inordinate amount of time solving my engine cooling/space management problem. And thanks to you and Monkeystash (Ryan) Ive made progress. Ryan sent me this link last week:

Slim-Fit Radiator System, Universal, Ford Style, 17-inch Core, Manual Trans | #69590-17

The basic concept of automotive radiators hasn't changed in more than 100 years! And fans have been hung onto them in a mish-mash of ways for just as long. Since then, aside from materials and design improvements, NOTHING HAS CHANGED...UNTIL NOW! PROFORM is upending the radiator industry with...

www.proformparts.com

though there is no direct replacement this model appears to be the most likely to be mounted in the engine compartment of my '65. Here is the link for pricing:

Proform Parts 69590-17 Proform Slim-Fit Radiator Systems | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Proform Slim-Fit Radiator Systems with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Radiators at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

again, though pricey it will only require 4" of depth and has a integrated thermostat control. Snooping around on the Proform website shows that there is a wide variety of dealer outlets that carry this product. Im going with the easiest option first which is the Perma-Cool dual fan and relay install. If I need to add a shroud I will likely be switching to the ECP 2-core radiator you have in your Mustang.

ECP | No Gimmick Cooling

speedcooling.com

My final option is to go with an electric water pump and this ECP radiator/fan kit:

ECP | No Gimmick Cooling

speedcooling.com

 

[Mach1Mark]

Electric fans with dash-mounted switch is now operational. I did however blow up my horn relay when I got a little hurried. Need to reinstall the driver seat after the relay is replaced along with a couple of remaining interior pieces. Need to learn how to operate the new-fangled radio after I give this beast an alignment and get some insurance on it.

 

[Horseplay]

Oh so close...

 

[Grabber70Mach]

Sounds like a fun summer in front of you.

 

[Mach1Mark]

Found my lost master cylinder cap today !!
After a call to American Autowire and a call to my wiring helper Terry, I figured out I needed to re-route the fan relay power from the harness wire labeled 'electric fan' and make a fused connection to the battery. Josh at AAW said I was on track to burn up my fuse panel. Perma-cool doesnt give very concise directions for someone like me to ensure a successful wiring experience. Thanks, Terry for the assist !!
Still havent figured out why my horn isnt working now, Josh said since I touched a hot wire to the metal steering column I shorted the horn as the horn button (and I presume the turn signal switch) are grounded through the column. I swapped the horn relay for the fog light relay at Josh's suggestion. Still no-go for the horn. Dammit !!
Ordered my very own caster/camber alignment tool this afternoon. Pretty soon I will be attempting to do my very first front end alignment

 

[Midlife]

I always recommend putting black electrical tape on the back side of the turn signal switch over the rivet heads; if they contact the steering column, they cause a dead short and kill the TS Switch in a heartbeat.

 

[Mach1Mark]

I always recommend putting black electrical tape on the back side of the turn signal switch over the rivet heads; if they contact the steering column, they cause a dead short and kill the TS Switch in a heartbeat.

It occurred to me that since I cant find the reason for the short that I might have somehow damaged the aftermarket horn switch. Possible??

 

[Mach1Mark]

Yesterday, I finished connecting the fan relay power wire to an inline fused power from battery source. The fans seem to be spinning at a higher rate. Here's hoping that thought they are small they are mighty and can keep my engine cool. Otherwise my next move is to swap out the radiator for one with fewer cores and then if needed, a single large diameter fan.

 

[Horseplay]

It occurred to me that since I cant find the reason for the short that I might have somehow damaged the aftermarket horn switch. Possible??

The horn "switch" on a 65 is just a simple mechanical contact. Are you using the stock wheel set-up?

 

[Mach1Mark]

The horn "switch" on a 65 is just a simple mechanical contact. Are you using the stock wheel set-up?

No, I bought one of the Shelby tribute wheels from Cruiser Crap. The horn button and billet aluminum hub came from Jegs. Im hoping the horn button isnt burned out, easy to test after I remove it from the hub.

 

[Mach1Mark]

After doing some forensic evaluation with my local Mustang buddy and fellow builder, we determine that I should keep the Champion four core radiator and put a bigger, high cfm electric fan on it. To do that I will need to re-install the short (-1.5") Motorsport water pump. This creates a problem because I cannot use my current CVF Racing water pump pulley as it is too deep. After thumbing through their catalog it looks like if I can get just the flat water pump pulley from another kit which is suited for the short water pump I can get my pulley system to work AND gain precious inches needed to have room to install the big electric fan. I called and he CAN sell me just the pulley I think will work and a shim kit since the pulley appears to be offset by -0.45" from where it needs to be. And he throws in a shaft centering pin for free. Now where did I put my short water pump . . .

 

[Mach1Mark]

Per recommendation I ordered a (2) 1" core ECP aluminum radiator and a 16" Flex-a-lite electric fan which supposedly pulls 3000 cfm. They arrived last weekend and I was going to install them today until I remembered I am otherwise occupied celebrating our mothers.

 

[Horseplay]

Damn women screw up everything!

 

[B67FSTB]

Nothing wrong with this setup but I love a full fan shroud with a visco coupler.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk

 

[Mach1Mark]

Radiator replacement update: yesterday I removed the 4-core Champion radiator and (2) 8” Perma-cool fans. Experimented with different mounting solutions for the ECP radiator and the 16” fan.

Today: Installed the 2-core ECP radiator and measured the clearance between the radiator face and the water pump bolts: 2 1/2” + a small gap for the fan. Measured the 16” Flex-a-Lite fan depth; 3 3/8”. I need to order and install the short snout water pump. Ive already ordered and received the short water pump pulley and accoutrements from CVF Racing. Going with the short water pump will give me an extra 1 1/2" of clearance right where the fan motor needs to be. Hopefully, the fan motor will clear the top of the crank belt pulley and serp belt. Ive measured a couple of times and I believe it will clear the crank pulley but it will be close, around 1/2" clear.

If I get this set-up installed successfully and it actually keeps the engine cool, it will be the biggest engineering feat Ive ever pulled off in my Mustang hobby life.

 

[B67FSTB]

No place for a shroud ??

 

[Mach1Mark]

No place for a shroud ??

Im not sure a shroud would be of benefit. Check the pic in post #572. The fan covers 71% of the core face with 70% being the smallest area required for electric fans to cool the engine. And the distance between the core face and the water pump pulley is my main concern but the crank pulley is at the same distance so I have to be mindful of possible interference there as well.

 

[B67FSTB]

The way I see it ,is that a fan shroud always be a benefit. But if space is a problem, by all means .

 

[Mach1Mark]

Ordered the Ford Racing short water pump (M-8501-E351S) last week. I removed the Flowkooler water pump today and dry fit the FR unit. Good news/bad news: there is a lot more room but I have to re-align all the serpentine pulleys as the water pump pulley is now 4 grooves (3/8") forward of where the other pulley on the other water pump was. Tomorrow I am going to continue the dry mock-up by installing the ECP radiator and Flex-a-lite 16" electric fan to see where everything fits up.

 

[B67FSTB]

Seems you have two serpentine belts ? Why ? Isn't it the purpose to run one ?
You p/s pump and compressor hinders you to run one serpentine belt.
When you have the possibility to run one belt and preferberly on the pulley closest to the timing cover . Less stress on the chrankshaft and seal. I would do it .
Did you check the rotation of the waterpump for future cooling problems ??
my2cents.