• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

67 GT 390 Fastback

The engine builder called me this morning. There is some water in the valley and the oil pan a little rust here and there but, he said nothing major. The engine turned over fine after he removed the incorrect bolts I used for the pressure plate. Anyone know how long the correct bolts are?

We are going to put the engine back in early next week and try to fire it up.

I found this info on the FE forums in an old post:

"The factory pressure plate bolts are a whopping 5/16`s, not 3/8`s. I would forget about any "hardware store" style of bolts, and get actual pressure plate bolts, which are shouldered to locate the P.plate correctly. Mr. Gasket or ARP should be cheap and easy to find. "

Does this sound correct?
 
I misunderstood the builder the pressure plate bolts were not keeping the engine from turning over. I just used the wrong grade bolts. Anyways, he broke down the engine and found some rust that was keeping the engine from turning over.

It hand cranks fine now. We dropped it back in, hooked up the exhaust, clutch linkage, starter, and alternator then called it a day.
 
"GTchris" said:
I misunderstood the builder the pressure plate bolts were not keeping the engine from turning over. I just used the wrong grade bolts. Anyways, he broke down the engine and found some rust that was keeping the engine from turning over.

It hand cranks fine now. We dropped it back in, hooked up the exhaust, clutch linkage, starter, and alternator then called it a day.
Click to expand...

Rust where? In the cylinders? Rust that had parts seized sounds pretty sever to me.
 
Well it seems as if I was wrong again.

The builder suspected it was some light rust that was binding everything up. We pulled the engine and he went through it and everything looked okay and the engine turned free when out of the car. So, we put the engine back in and bolted everything back up.

We tried to fire up the car yesterday and it would not turn over. So, after standing around for a while he decided the only thing it could be that we have not checked was the fly wheel bolts that he gave me.

We pulled the transmission, the pressure plate and removed the fly wheel bolts and it turns over.

So, we will be back at it next week.
 
Since my last post the builder has had my carb and is not returning my calls.

Not much left to do, just a bunch of little stuff. I ordered the door panels a while ago they just have not showed up yet.

vy7upenu.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
"stangg" said:
For what short time it ran in the video it sounds good... Why does the builder have your carb?
Click to expand...

1) He said that it was the cause that the car was not idling correct and he wanted to tear it apart.

2) He is giant douche nozzle - still have not heard from him
 
I got tired of leaving messages for the builder so I went over to his house and got my carb back.

I put it on the counter and just noticed this.

9u2yrugy.jpg


I made a post in the electrical board asking why my lead for the choke had a melt down. I think this might be why. It looks like the guy that set this up has the positive grounded.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have started the car about 10 times trying to get it the carb and timing dialed in and the starter spins but, will not engage the flywheel now.

It will idle and not die at 1100 rpms so, I have some tuning to still do and looks like install a new starter.
 
Installed a new starter and worked on getting this dialed in again.

This fitting on the carb was sucking air like crazy.

deqe6yvu.jpg


I took it off and put a piece of tape between the outside and the screen and it is better but, still seems like a vacuum leak is present. I had some staring fluid so I sprayed around the base if the carb and there is a leak on the back side around the base. I am going to pick up a couple of new carb gaskets and see how that works out.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I had someone else come out and look at the car today.

I was told that the port I plugged is for the original temp controlled choke and does not matter if it is plugged or not since it has been converted to electric choke.

Otherwise there does not appear to be any vacuum leaks at all now and it still will not idle properly.

I pulled the carb again and am going to have it pulled apart again and see if someone different can get it sorted out.
 
I had someone come out last Friday to take a look and see if they could figure out what was going on. We put a vacuum gauge on it and it looks good. So, he took my carb and said he would get back to me.

The shop that has my carb said that they are going to tear it apart and see what is going on. They said that it was going to be done by this coming weekend but, they just called today and said the wrong gasket kit showed up.
 
"GTchris" said:
47c1f377-de11-008d.jpg


This is interesting, the driver side map light does not turn off. The passenger side works like it should. Don't need the car on for it to work and turns off/on just fine.
Click to expand...

I removed the console to see what is going on with this light. I figured out that it came wired wrong out of the box. Light and switch work fine now.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I took the car to the brake / line up shop and they had to add a vacuum pump to the car to adjust for the cam.

They told me that the brake booster must be leaking as the brakes still are not working quite right.

When I brought the car back home I stopped by the gas station. I have some feedback for Craig, when the pump clicked off I noticed gas running out from under the gas cap onto my bumper.

I also noticed the temp gauge was reading what seemed to me to be higher than normal from just a few short drives.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top