RyanG85
Well-Known Member
Coming together nicely! I like the wooden mock up frame, great idea!
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70_Fastback: RAT ROD - 193x Ford / 1942 GMC Truck
- Thread starter 70_Fastback
- Start date
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
what year or head casting numbers is the 460? Just curious.
70_Fastback
Hell Bent for Speed
I don't remember off the top of my head Craig (#2) - part of me wants to say D2 or D3. But not sure if that's right. I can look tonight and let you know.
What does your curiosity have you wondering?
What does your curiosity have you wondering?
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
The early 70's are the best. Ford raised the deck height on the block and increased the cc's in the combustion chamber as well as dished the pistons on the later 460's so that the compression ratio is like 8:1, the CJ heads are best (D0OE-R), then the C8VE,C9VE,D0VE. (with suffix, A, or C), (75cc) casting and then the D2OE Police intercepter heads (mid 80's cc). The D3VE (95cc) are okay. The ports on the exhaust side get pretty restrictive. The D2VE are the worst and make good boat anchors. They have huge chambers and no quench pad so they tend to spark knock and they don't breath well.
Anyway, not that it matters, you have plenty O torque and a light truck! I was just curious.
Anyway, not that it matters, you have plenty O torque and a light truck! I was just curious.
70_Fastback
Hell Bent for Speed
Gotcha. The engine runs as is. So for now, it will get it going. But I am thinking "stroker" in the future...
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
you might not need a stroker with some rear gear. I'm sure my Stang weighs a lot more than your truck will and it gets outta control quite easily with a stab of the throttle!
70_Fastback
Hell Bent for Speed
The 9" I picked up is a 3.25 Gearing
A
Anonymous
Guest
and if you were crazy enough to change to a 3.70 you could bring back American tire manufacturers to the pinnacle of the tire kingdom sales :ecit
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
No doubt! I can smoke 'em all day long with a 2.79 rear gear and a tool box, spare tire and the battery in the trunk. With a 3.25, 3.70 and God forbid a 4.11:1 I can shred tires at part throttle!!! You will have NO traction with a sheet metal box over the rear wheels!"silverblueBP" said:
70_Fastback
Hell Bent for Speed
you know whats scary Craig... I've already seen that. :scar
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
I should have known!
I like you 2x4 frame mock up idea, I think I will do the same on my "trailer"
I like you 2x4 frame mock up idea, I think I will do the same on my "trailer"
70_Fastback
Hell Bent for Speed
It's a heck of a lot cheaper - and easier to tweak.
70_Fastback
Hell Bent for Speed
"tarafied1" said:
The heads are a D3 casting. I remember seeing that this weekend Craig2.
70_Fastback
Hell Bent for Speed
I had to make a heavy duty engine cradle to hold up the 460 & tranny combo this past weekend so I could position the engine roughly where I want it so I could drop the cab down on the frame to see how everything sits.
I think I am about there with the frame. I need to narrow the front frame section though a little. But also by doing this I am interfering with the oil filter, on the driver side - and for now also hitting the passenger side exhaust manny. I will be using custom headers, so the manifold is of no concern to me, and I figure I can run a remote oil filter if there is still a clearance issue. May have to raise or lower the engine just a tad. I'll figure it out.
Here it is sitting almost at ride height:
Since this last picture, I have pulled the crushed in rockers back down & out. which closes my cab to ground distance a couple more inches. Which is exactly what I want. I am going to reinforce the rockers with 2"x 2"x 3/16" angle iron -- similar to how the mustang rocker is boxed in -- for extra strength, since this will be the low point of the vehicle and may be susceptible to the occasional "interference".
**All comfort and practicality has been sacrificed for style** :coo
I think I am about there with the frame. I need to narrow the front frame section though a little. But also by doing this I am interfering with the oil filter, on the driver side - and for now also hitting the passenger side exhaust manny. I will be using custom headers, so the manifold is of no concern to me, and I figure I can run a remote oil filter if there is still a clearance issue. May have to raise or lower the engine just a tad. I'll figure it out.
Here it is sitting almost at ride height:
Since this last picture, I have pulled the crushed in rockers back down & out. which closes my cab to ground distance a couple more inches. Which is exactly what I want. I am going to reinforce the rockers with 2"x 2"x 3/16" angle iron -- similar to how the mustang rocker is boxed in -- for extra strength, since this will be the low point of the vehicle and may be susceptible to the occasional "interference".
**All comfort and practicality has been sacrificed for style** :coo
Last edited by a moderator:
A
Anonymous
Guest
Slap some wheels on that sucker and do some donuts in front of the neighbors!
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Looking good. I would pull the rear end closer to the cab and shorten the wheel base even more. Run the front edge of the rear tire right at the rear of the cab. Not like you need a big truck bed, just a place for a fuel tank. At least the wood frame is easy to modify....
70_Fastback
Hell Bent for Speed
Since the weather (read SNOW) is not cooperating with me getting the cab to the blaster, I got ancy and started some rust (well, bad rust) repair this weekend too.
The passenger side cab corner had been crushed in and the rocker folder in entirely. I pulled the rocker out and straightend it. I will reinforce with angle iron as I described earlier.
I first pulled out the old cab corner to see what was there. And what was there was not much - LoL.
So I decided to cut out the bad shart and put in some new. Went to my supply of metal stock and started forming my patch panel. And yes, I realize it is galvanized sheet metal. All proper saftey precautions, filtered masks and air changes were inforced.
Started by rolling a bottom edge to somewhat replicate the factory look.
Pie cut it and start rough forming. And for the life of my I could not find a single pair of vice grips! I think the vice-grip gnomes stole them. So your WE clamp came in handy Rod.
Cut out the bad shart:
Old and new:
Welding it in:
The pie cuts will be welding closed when I reinforce the rocker with the 2x2 angle iron.
Now I just need to do the other cab corner and make it match. Then hit the large middle section where the big rot is.
Fun stuff!
The passenger side cab corner had been crushed in and the rocker folder in entirely. I pulled the rocker out and straightend it. I will reinforce with angle iron as I described earlier.
I first pulled out the old cab corner to see what was there. And what was there was not much - LoL.
So I decided to cut out the bad shart and put in some new. Went to my supply of metal stock and started forming my patch panel. And yes, I realize it is galvanized sheet metal. All proper saftey precautions, filtered masks and air changes were inforced.
Started by rolling a bottom edge to somewhat replicate the factory look.
Pie cut it and start rough forming. And for the life of my I could not find a single pair of vice grips! I think the vice-grip gnomes stole them. So your WE clamp came in handy Rod.
Cut out the bad shart:
Old and new:
Welding it in:
The pie cuts will be welding closed when I reinforce the rocker with the 2x2 angle iron.
Now I just need to do the other cab corner and make it match. Then hit the large middle section where the big rot is.
Fun stuff!
Last edited by a moderator:
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Nice work.........